Right before we start lets get one thing straight:
this information is very rare and i dont want it to be abused!
I am giving this out under my own kindness and you will not find it anywhere else! I am typing this myself and I dont want to see clones of this information unless my name is all over it!
So lets start with a run down of what we need to purchase before you attempt the conversion.
A corsa C - Obviously you need to start with a corsa C
Z20let engine + Gearbox - You will also obviously need the engine, I run the F23 gearbox wich is 5 speed, you can get the M32 gearbox to run 6 speed and this can be found on the VXR range, these gear boxes run the same mountings so this can be upgraded at a later date if you wish.
Along with the engine you will need the engine wiring loom.
This is very important If you have a 1L or 1.2 corsa you do NOT need the z20let ecu/transponder/key/chip you can use all the orignal corsa stuff, this is because the corsa and astra run the same ecu, and a simple remap with the z20let engine map will work fine! this is tried and tested by me and works 100%
If you have a 1.4 or 1.8 you WILL need the z20let ecu, transponer, wiring, key, chip and the wiring stage is a little more effort but can be done.
Parts to buy from vauxhall:
Rear gearbox mount: Corsa Diesel 1.7 - P/N - 24463130
Rear gearbox fork: Corsa Diesel 1.7 - P/N - 9227882
Front Gearbox Mount: Astra GSI Z20Let - P/N - 9156951
Offside Mount: this comes in 2 sections and is from the Corsa Diesel 1.7 and P/N are - 24463127 & 13160000
Drivers Side Mount - Astra GSI - P/N - 90576148
Those are the mounts you need. The only problem with running these mounts is that the drivers side is a very tight squeez and sits a little bent. This is NOT a problem as the block on the mount does not hit anything so it does not nock or bang but people might say why is it like that? To overcome this you need a custom offside mount either the M-tech one or JNC can do you one.
Onto drive shafts & Hubs:
Again this was very interesting for me as i was not told by anyone what to use, even Regal told me on the phone they dont know what they used...
Shafts - Astra GSI Z20let
Hubs - I used the hubs from chris ashtley motorsport, they cost £92.50 delivered but there is a problem, these hubs do NOT actually fit in the astra gsi cv joints, to get around this i had to take them to a local machinest to get the hubs skimmed down and the joints pressed in and out until they sat firmly.
Gearing:
Before I give you part numbers let me get 1 thing straight!
I dont care what anyone says! Astra z20let and Corsa 1.7 gear linkage is the same fitting!!! I got told by everyone oh its not, so i went out my way to buy an astra one just to test! and it fits! So if you buy an engine and they offer you the gear linkage do not turn it down as its a good £80!
So...
Linkage - Astra GSI Z20let Or Corsa 1.7 Diesel - P/N - 24461921
Gear Stick - Corsa 1.7 Diesel Cable Stick - P/N - 55353676
Coolant:
You can use the astra Z20let rad pack with no problems!
So that is all you need to buy! Now lets move onto the important stuff.
Getting started...
Remove your engine like so:
Its always handy to get a slave to help you (i chose MattH off here)
Oh and yes that is a C20let you see but dont worry i have not mixed things up lol.
we took things to the extreme as we lifted the 1.2 out by hand
it gets late but keep going
come dusk its out
As you can see, if we can lift it out by hand it cant be to hard!
Jsut make sure EVERYTHING is un plugged as you dont want to break anything.
Things to check for are:
ECU wires unplugged
Tank vent valve unplugged
Fuel lines unplugged
coolant hoses unplugged
Window washer bottle unplugged (it sits away from most wires)
Gear linkage disconnected
Thats about it really just make sure there is nothing left plugged in especially if removing by hand!
General Tips before removing:
Remove driveshafts!
Make sure the car is secure on axle stands as one nock on the frame could = disaster!
Battery removed
If you plan to move the car after the engine is out make sure you have driveshafts in as if your hub bearings are worn they could split and that means your wheels will freely fall off!
Now getting onto the better bits:
While the engine is out i strongly advise you clean/paint your engine bay as once the engines in you wont get a chance!
just look at mine!
for piece of mind i woul also suggest you get your engine bay seam welded, many people ask why? my response is i dont want to die
Now that the bay is all ready its time to get rolling.
Before starting you will need to extend your battery looms as the z20let ones have no way of reaching your battery as they are!
Get your offside mount and bolt it into the car. This is the only mount we are bolting at this stage.
Get your rear gearbox fork and bolt this to replace your orignal one, we are using the diesel one as it is alot shorter.
Now, you need to bolt the rear gearbox mount to the gearbox. Before you do this you MUST get a 10mm spacer made up. otherwise there is no way the mount will reach your fork!
you want it to come out something like this:
that is what you are aiming for once mounted.
next we are going to start getting the engine into the bay (make sure you have a crane).
Things look very messy right now but do not panic, this is very early stages!
Tips for dropping the engine in:
The engine MUST go in at a 90 degree angle with the gearbox facing downwards!
Once the engine is cleared into the bay with the gearbox facing the rear of the car start to turn the engine so it is facing the right direction, once the engine cannot turn any more you need to drop the engine onto the subframe and slide your chain to the other end to pull your gearbox up, this will then swing the engine in the bay so it sits at the right shape.
Do not be afraid to give the engine a push and pull to get it in place (its on the crane dont forget).
Repeat the above steps, it will not go in first time! (it took me around 2 hours the first time, now i can do it in 10 mins).
Once the engine is sitting in place bolt the gearbox mount to the offside mount.
Then bolt the drivers side mount.
Note: The drivers side mount will need modification to fit! Elongate the holes until they sit, you might have to force it but it will go in!
Lastly bolt the front gearbox mount to the gearbox! you will get an idea of clearence.
Next you need to measure up the front mount and get some custom plates made up like this:
noiw that the engine is sitting you should have something like this:
Its starting to take shape.
At this stage i did the wiring and fired it up (I will post more information on the wiring later!):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JLyFOh5w8VQ
Bare in mind this is the first ever start up it sounds like a tank as no exhaust, no air filter, no sensors plugged in etc etc etc!
but she runs!
Now we start putting things back together.
Plug all your coolant hoses in and check for any leaks! do not go mad with your coolant and check for leaks constantly as you do not want water pissing everywhere!
Once you have checked them all and thats all ok put your boost pipes on and clip them up so they dont fly off!
With that all good you can securely mount your radpack/intercooler etc etc.
now that it is all mounted and we have checked for leaks you can move onto driveshafts and hubs!
Note:
You will need to buy a new set of bearings as your old ones will get nakered pressing them out.
Hubs & Shafts:
With your new bearings to hand get your original corsa hubs pressed out of your nuckle and get your new bearing pressed in along with the new hubs.
Once this is done you can go back to the engine, slot your driveshafts into place and then mount your hubs.
Start your engine in gear so we know you have drive!
Once that is checked its all good.
Gears:
Now this is simple but fiddly, slot your new linkage through the hole into the car, connect the 2 ball joints to the engine side of things.
Unscrew the center sorround around the gear stick and hand brake (to remove this you must unscrew your handbrake, it has 4 10mm nuts)
change your stick over to the 1.7 diesel part and connect the linkage.
Test it to check you have gears!
Tip: Do not panic if you think your gear stick is broke, they do not move until the linkage is connected for some reason!
Now for a quick summary so far we have:
A mounted engine
A wired engine
Driveshafts & hubs with drive!
Gears
Coolant
Boost pipes.
You are nearly there
The next part is really just putting things together.
Get yourself some nice big brakes! you will need them! I went for Hi spec's but some people use vectra C brakes or something simelar.
Once you have brakes you can put your wheels on! again you are 1 step closer as you now have brakes and wheels
Clutch:
Connect up your clutch line and bleed it, this is bled in the same way you would do brakes!
So now you also have a clutch
so thats a car with gears + drive + clutch
Exhaust:
I went to Top Gear Exhausts in Basingstoke and got a custom system made up. Some people say you can modify the old exhaust to fit? but whats the point you want atleast a 2 inch bore! ideally 2.5 inch.
Air Filter:
The 1 downside to this conversion is that you have to use a cone filter as panel filters etc just wont fitbut just get something well recommended and you will be fine!
And that is it!
your conversion is complete!
The only 1 thing i have not included is information on wiring!
JNC Racing can do this for 200 quid! or 250 i am not sure?
Or you can do it yourself like i did but you will need a copy of TIS 2000 and knowledge on wiring!
Or i can do it for you for the right price!
Last few bits!
If you are not confident then DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS YOURSELF!
This took me 2 months to do as i had no information on what was needed!
I could redo this in a week if that but if you do not know much about cars then dont do it! leave it to someone who knows!
If any parts are wrong just let me know and i can update the post!
If you are thinking about doing this then good luck and enjoy!
Also thanks to kyle aka nyzrox for help on part numbers
Regards,
Gary AKA Gary-2LT
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Originally Posted by GazzPark
Dirty little stealth 