Torque settings

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  1. #1

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    Torque settings

    Hi,

    Can anybody tell me the torque settings for the following components on a 52plate 1.2

    lower wishbone/hub pinch bolt???
    track rod end???
    brake carrier to hub (torx)???
    brake calliper to carrier???
    Droplink to strut???

    I also need these, I think I have found some of them already if anybody could confirm them that would be great.

    Upper strut mounting nut: 50Nm
    Strut to hub bolts: Stage 1 80Nm - Stage 2 60 degrees - Stage 3 15 degrees.
    Front hub nut: 120Nm -> Loosen -> 20Nm -> 90 degrees

    Thanks in advance

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  3. #2

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    Anybody?

  4. #3

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    I've been a mechanic for 7 years and the only thing I torque up is cylinder head bolts. Just do them tight mate

  5. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by SRi_G View Post
    I've been a mechanic for 7 years and the only thing I torque up is cylinder head bolts. Just do them tight mate
    Never taking my car to your garage







  6. #5

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    Never had anything fall off

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    That all of them?

  8. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by SRi_G View Post
    I've been a mechanic for 7 years and the only thing I torque up is cylinder head bolts. Just do them tight mate
    this. but i torque wheels aswell

  9. #8

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    ive worked in or alongside many garages and as stated above headbolts are about the only thing that gets torqued up to a required setting.

    We dont do mechanics though just for the record.

  10. #9

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    Making good use of the pdf I see

  11. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vulture View Post
    Making good use of the pdf I see

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    Quote Originally Posted by MancMark View Post
    this. but i torque wheels aswell
    Air gun on 2, tighten them till it stops

  13. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by MancMark View Post
    this. but i torque wheels aswell
    Air gun on 2, tighten them till it stops

  14. #13

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    Lawis, thanks for your help, that is ideal! In the end due to time constraints I had to go ahead and take a guesstimate on the wishbone and droplink, and I picked 70Nm so that's not so bad, but good to have it confirmed anyway. Just put in two new wheel bearings and [yet another] spring, bit odd for a car that has only done 50k, but I'm told they like their springs.

    As for torquing bolts, joking aside, it is fairly crucial, especially on suspension and braking components. A lot of design and testing goes in to selecting the correct torque figure for a bolt, based on the type of bolt, thickness, hardness, yeild, and purpose. Not really the sort of thing you want to be just guessing if you can help it.

    Obviously not very important when it comes to securing bits of trim or bodywork, but for instance things like main bearing caps will actually stretch the bolts under normal operation, there is a finite range at which the fastener is elastic enough to accommodate the stresses and yet secure enough not to come loose.

    Alloy wheels are another good example of something that should be torqued, seen quite a few sheered studs and bolts and broken locking nuts as a result of airwrench use. Certainly stuffs anybody changing their wheel at the side of the road in an emergency.

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    get yourself a haynes manual bud, everythings in there

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    I just hand tighten my alloys then jump on the bar

  17. #16

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    Lol at you telling me to torque things up.

  18. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lockeh
    get yourself a haynes manual bud, everythings in there
    I'm actually hoping to sell the car shortly, so hopefully won't be needed. I used to have autodata, but I tend to only concentrate on one brand thesedays (not vauxhalls ) and use the factory workshop manuals which I find better than they Haynes. I'm guessing Lawis's scan looks like one for the Corsa C.

    Its not been a bad little runabout really but time to move on I think.

    Quote Originally Posted by SRi_G
    Lol at you telling me to torque things up
    lol, well somebody has to

  19. #18

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    I've got a PDF of a haynes manual, PM me if you want it

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lawis. View Post




    That all of them?
    Just what I was looking for!! Fitting a new hub to my wee C

  21. #20

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    I have fitted hundreds If not thousands of drop links, arms, pinch bolts etc... Over the years as I'm a mechanic myself and you don't need to torque the bolts just make sure they are tight. I don't know any garage small or main dealers that would.

  22. #21

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    Same here.

  23. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by null_byte View Post
    Lawis, thanks for your help, that is ideal! In the end due to time constraints I had to go ahead and take a guesstimate on the wishbone and droplink, and I picked 70Nm so that's not so bad, but good to have it confirmed anyway. Just put in two new wheel bearings and [yet another] spring, bit odd for a car that has only done 50k, but I'm told they like their springs.

    As for torquing bolts, joking aside, it is fairly crucial, especially on suspension and braking components. A lot of design and testing goes in to selecting the correct torque figure for a bolt, based on the type of bolt, thickness, hardness, yeild, and purpose. Not really the sort of thing you want to be just guessing if you can help it.

    Obviously not very important when it comes to securing bits of trim or bodywork, but for instance things like main bearing caps will actually stretch the bolts under normal operation, there is a finite range at which the fastener is elastic enough to accommodate the stresses and yet secure enough not to come loose.

    Alloy wheels are another good example of something that should be torqued, seen quite a few sheered studs and bolts and broken locking nuts as a result of airwrench use. Certainly stuffs anybody changing their wheel at the side of the road in an emergency.
    I agree with this.
    that's why the rest of you who don't torque fasteners up are just stuck being mechanic's

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