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How To De-Rubstrip/De-Badge...

67K views 153 replies 88 participants last post by  Itzkyky 
#1 · (Edited)
There seems to be a billion threads on people wondering how to take off there rub strips and badges. Its pretty simple. There is already a tutorial on how to take off the badges on the back so I won't really go in to much detail regarding how to de-badge.

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I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH, PLEASE HAVE PATIENCE WHILST DOING THIS AND DO NOT RUSH ANYTHING I LEARNT THE HARD WAY.

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What you will need:

A hairdryer/heat gun (be careful with a heat gun however as this may damage your paint work),
Autoglym Intensive Bug and Tar Remover (£5.99ish),
A cloth or a rag of some sort,
A credit/debit card of some sort.

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Firstly you want to be heating the rub strip with the hair dryer or whatever you are using. I normally heat it for about a minute but you can for up to about three minutes although be careful that you will not be damaging your paintwork. Get your card and place it behind the rub strip, pry it and hopefully the first bit of the rub strip will want to come off. Whilst heating it continue all the way down til you have done the whole strip you are taking off. TAKE YOUR TIME AS IF YOU PULL IT OFF WITH FORCE IT MAY RIP YOUR PAINTWORK APART.

You will now be left with glue residue. I tend to soak the glue residue in the bug and tar remover for about five minutes. This makes it so much easier to get the glue off. Just keeping going at it with your cloth and the remover and in time it will be gone. People may also choose to use vinegar, WD-40, petrol etc.

You may then notice that after you have taken the rub strip off and taken off all the glue residue it leaves you with a shade of white. This is condensation don't worry you have not damaged your paint. Pouring boiling water over it solves it eventually. Basically you want to apply heat to it by using a hair dryer or using the water. This will go within time as it is just condensation so if you want to call it a day you can. This does not happen over night however and may take weeks depending on the weather.

After all this you may still be able to see where the badges and/or the strips were, a good polishing of your car should sort it.

This tutorial can be applied for badges as well however there will be no condensation marks under your badges. Under the Vauxhall Griffin there will be two holes so be aware that you will have to fill these in if you choose to take off your griffin. Your rub strips and your other badges will not have anything under them.

Please take your time doing your rub strips as they have been known to rip paint off if done rapidly.

Some people also find that there cars have not been painted under the rub strips or that there are basically paint defects under there rub strips. This is a problem that can't really be sorted by yourself as it was previously painted wrong. A door will have to be replaced for around £70 second hand or a respray of about £150 professionally. Costly. An alternative method is to get new rub strips and colour code them to the same colour as your car. Thus protecting your door again and will be less noticeable however people may not find it as appealing.

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Hope this helps, take you time doing your rub strips, heat the glue well before applying force to remove the rub strips.

Let me know if I have missed something.
 
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#32 ·
thinking bout debadging and de-rubbing is it a long process have bought 5 hours to get them off and get all glue off wanna make it a thorough job so i just heat them up with a hairdryer and get a old crebit card under them to peel them off then get the glue off and polish like **** lol
 
#34 ·
to get the glue off within minutes, instead of using tar remover etc etc. use a fudge wheel; tool from snapon and other companys, a friend of mine knew i was having trouble. after an hour of trying i got half of the first strip off, he came round with it and within 5 minutes, it was all completely gone, wasn't left with any condensation :)
 
#38 ·
Tell me about it...! To be honest, the second side was easier, I made sure I was slower and gave it more hair dryer treatment. More glue seemed to come off with the rubstrip this time. Half an hour at it with some meth spirits and voila :) Can't believe how much better it looks.
 
#42 ·
Good luck bud. Hope there are no defects :).

Does at matter the length of time you take to use the whole boiling water/hairdryer thing. I took rub strips off las week and one side is just god awful is it too late to get my hair dryer back on it :( really dont want colour coded strips on.
Only way is to stick it back on I'm afraid. Whats wrong with it?
 
#44 ·
took me about a hour to take all the badges off mine, I was a little dissapointed about the back though there is like a outline in the paintwork that says corsa were the badge used to be any ideas how to get this off i meen its been cleaned loads of times since i did it yet it's still there it dosent feel like there is anything there so i think its just enbedded in the paint :\ any1 else find this?
 
#52 ·
Polish :).

I debadged and derubbed 1 side just before. I used WD40 and an old credit card, and pretty much scratched the glue off in layers, takes a while but it works. Got bored though so gonna do the other side tomorow!
:thumbs:

ive had both my doors professionally sprayed and lackered due to two dents do you rekon it would be noticable if i took mine of as it was only sprayed to the rubstips :S i want my car 2 look good but already forked uot 200 quid to have it sprayed dnt wanna do ih agen
If the rubstrip was not taken off during the respray then I would not recommend de rubstripping.

if you decide its ****ed, or you want them back on again you could always stick them on again with tiger seal, very very strong glue used in a lot of body shops etc, just don't try taking them off again as they won't come off lol.
:lol:

I've got the smaller rub-strips, the ones not on the doors off, but the glue just isnt coming off, i've spent about an hour on them with WD-40, credit card, hair dryer and a kettle but the glue isnt coming off. am i doing something wrong or just spend more time on them? and how long does it usually take to get all the strips off?
Hours. Just keep going at it, it is difficult as the glue is really stubborn. Try a Toffee Wheel.
 
#50 ·
I've got the smaller rub-strips, the ones not on the doors off, but the glue just isnt coming off, i've spent about an hour on them with WD-40, credit card, hair dryer and a kettle but the glue isnt coming off. am i doing something wrong or just spend more time on them? and how long does it usually take to get all the strips off?
 
#67 ·
I am going to de-rub strip this week but want some info. I pulled the edges of each rub strip to check if there was a laquer edge where it may have been resprayed and i found nothing, all was smooth!. But, i found a dirty outline (Like a greasy scum line) around the rub strip, just below where a sponge can reach during washing, which has obviously built up over the years as dirt has built up. I tried to remove the dirty greasy marks with my finger, but found they wouldn't all come off. Would polish or T-cut shift these dirty marks or will i be left with a dirty outline? Also, how bad would the condensation marks be on my car?? It is star silver 3. And would the condensation marks definitely disappear?
 
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