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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi.
I have a Corsa 1.7 Diesel
When I bought it, it was in 'Limp mode' (It idles smoothly at 800rpm and runs smoothly while driving at low speeds, BUT, the rpm is limited to 2000, any attempt to accelerate more, the engine makes a sort of metallic rasping noise),
Other things I noticed:
  • Spanner light is on permanently
  • Remote locking dead
  • The A/C is inoperative
  • The oil is 50% over the 'max' mark on the dip stick
Doing the pedal press thingy with the ignition on I get the following codes, in this order:
0100 - MAF High input C-10
0100 - (again)
0110 - Intake air temperature circuit high input
0370 - Timing reference high resolution signal "A"
0335 - Crankshaft sensor open circuit
1616 - Wrong vehicle ID from Instrument control module
0602 - Control module programming error

I simply would like your opinions on whether you see a whole pile of problems and expense, or does all this evidence point to a particular probable cause that you would attempt to resolve?

thank you for reading all this!
Dave
 

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Hello, welcome to ccuk and sorry to hear about problems. Do you have a 1.7Di / 1.7 DTi (the Y17DTL/Y17DT engine) or 1.7 CDTi (Z17DTH) engine? The CDTi/Z17DTH is the only common-rail, but all three have a turbo. I'm not completely sure (I have a Y17DT engine) but I think the Di/DTi might not have a 'limp mode' as such - whereas I think the CDTi does - but the turbo not functioning properly simply strangles the performance. My turbo spools up around 1800rpm and that metallic rasping noise (my turbo is in good condition) is something I hear when the engine is cold. To conserve my turbo when the engine is cold, I change up at 1500rpm (which gives poor acceleration of course) until it has warmed up a bit, and after a long drive where the turbo has been spooling continuously, I let it idle for a while before switching off. It does sound as though your turbo is constantly struggling, though.

Other members know a lot more (and will discuss the codes better) than I do, but there are a number of unrelated problems that would concern me. Some checks can be done easily at little or no cost but there is the possibility that your turbo and A/C problems become time consuming and expensive to fix. It also seems to me (again, others will know better) that a previous owner has had problems that haven't been properly or successfully sorted.

Get rid of the excess oil; that sounds like far too much and could foam up as the engine runs. This will make it a poor lubricant and the turbo will suffer quickest. Are there any oil patches on the ground when the car is left? The previous owner might have been topping up and over-compensated.

Check the vacuum lines for signs of perishing, holes and splits which would mess up the turbo. After that, the EGR, actuator and turbo itself could need investigating.

The A/C might be out of refrigerant, the compressor may have failed but refrigerant might have leaked from hoses/pipes or - most expensively - the condenser, but all the performance problems are the first priority to determine the cause and cost.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hello, welcome to ccuk and sorry to hear about problems. Do you have a 1.7Di / 1.7 DTi (the Y17DTL/Y17DT engine) or 1.7 CDTi (Z17DTH) engine? The CDTi/Z17DTH is the only common-rail, but all three have a turbo. I'm not completely sure (I have a Y17DT engine) but I think the Di/DTi might not have a 'limp mode' as such - whereas I think the CDTi does - but the turbo not functioning properly simply strangles the performance. My turbo spools up around 1800rpm and that metallic rasping noise (my turbo is in good condition) is something I hear when the engine is cold. To conserve my turbo when the engine is cold, I change up at 1500rpm (which gives poor acceleration of course) until it has warmed up a bit, and after a long drive where the turbo has been spooling continuously, I let it idle for a while before switching off. It does sound as though your turbo is constantly struggling, though.

Other members know a lot more (and will discuss the codes better) than I do, but there are a number of unrelated problems that would concern me. Some checks can be done easily at little or no cost but there is the possibility that your turbo and A/C problems become time consuming and expensive to fix. It also seems to me (again, others will know better) that a previous owner has had problems that haven't been properly or successfully sorted.

Get rid of the excess oil; that sounds like far too much and could foam up as the engine runs. This will make it a poor lubricant and the turbo will suffer quickest. Are there any oil patches on the ground when the car is left? The previous owner might have been topping up and over-compensated.

Check the vacuum lines for signs of perishing, holes and splits which would mess up the turbo. After that, the EGR, actuator and turbo itself could need investigating.

The A/C might be out of refrigerant, the compressor may have failed but refrigerant might have leaked from hoses/pipes or - most expensively - the condenser, but all the performance problems are the first priority to determine the cause and cost.
Thanks so much for the detailed and useful reply!
It is a Corsa C 1.7 DTi, so, if that's the CDTi you refer to then I guess it has limp mode...(Where would I look to find out if it's the Z17DTH engine?)
It would be good to find out for sure what the difference is between the symptoms of limp mode, and the symptoms of a failed / failing turbo. If the turbo is the fault, then I imagine the error codes need not be dealt with now. (none of the reported codes are turbo codes)
Thanks again, and if anyone can clarify how to confirm limp mode, that would be great!
 

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If your car is badged DTi, then it is the Y17DT engine, not the Z17DTH of the CDTi which is a common-rail version of the engine. I am not familiar with what your fault codes mean (apart from Google of course) but there are others here on this forum who are better qualified than I so I will not speculate (I am often wrong). However, I did look for symptoms and codes similar to yours with 1.7 DTi owners and this thread my be worth reading. One of the people who comments - Marks152 - also regularly comments here and is very good at successfully suggesting where to look for faults

Although the engine is very reliable, the EDU for delivering the correct diesel and the ECU, which sits on top of the engine, are electronics that can deteriorate with age and exposure. As with the thread I have just linked, people can sometimes replace all the sensors that the fault codes indicate have problems but, instead, the sensors were fine and it was the ECU itself that was not processing the information from the sensors correctly.

If you do the obvious and free/inexpensive things (checking for obvious deterioration in wiring, hoses and pipes, removing the excessive oil) first, I hope by then some of the more mechanically gifted members will contribute good advice.
 

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The pedal test only displays codes that have been recorded at some time with no way of distinguishing between historic and current codes. So to get some clarity you need to clear all the codes and see if any come back, otherwise you will be potentially chasing faults that may not even be there.
 
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