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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The g/f picked up her 02 plate 1.2 last week & has driven it all week without any real bother.

She came to see me on my dinner yesterday at work & that was the last she used the car.

Come to jump in today to go to town & minimal dash lights are on.

Mileage display - which comes on when you unlock the door, displayed sod all. Even with key turned.
Interior blowers worked
Headlights worked
The only lights on the dash that displayed were the handbrake light & the light indicated by the green arrow:



Which i believe is an engine warning light?

She's try to start it & it'd just turn over & not fire up.

It has supposedly had a new battery & the altenator checked. She says the battery is new, but as she was told it'd been serviced & i've spotted that it hasn't (tap water for screenwash, dirty coolant, black oil) i wonder if it's had a NEW battery, or a DIFFERENT battery - being 2 different things.

Got the jump leads out & tried it off of my car - again no joy.

Kept trying & kept trying - no joy.

Was about to push it to where i park so it could be stuck on charge (even thuogh doubting that'd be a solution) & when she turned the key, everything fired up (lights) as though there'd been nothing wrong & car started first time.





This comes 1 week after all the needles dying on me on the drive home from Scotland & then firing up again, & then dying again & doing that cycle about 4-5 times in the space of 30-60 seconds (which also hasn't happened since).




Ideas of causes?
Ideas of solutions?
Ideas of likely cost?

Thanks.


EDIT: As i have opcom, where's the port to plug in to so i can read/wipe fault codes?
 

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Green arrow one is exhaust emissions
 

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Take the speedo clocks out, there is a plug that the speedo sits in behind, bulk that out a bit with something, so that it sticks out further and pushes into the clocks further.
It's a common thing on those, if you didn't have the speedo plugged in the car wouldn't start, if it's only making slight contact, then it will affect the starting
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Pushing the dials, they don't seem to be loose at all. There's no give in them.

Not owning a Corsa myself & only an Astra, i can only compare it to mine

& if it's anything similar at all, then it doesn't even need the clocks in to start up. I've had my clocks out plenty of times due to LED conversions & then LEDs blowing & i've driven my car without clocks in at all.

As i say though, i don't know if the Corsa is similar (in that you don't actually NEED the clocks to drive the car)
 

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Take the clocks out and bulk the plug out, also see if it will start without the clocks, its a 10min job realistically
Then you can see if it's that, let us know hoe you get on, make sure you bulk it out a fair bit tho, so the clocks are nice and tight
 

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Think its 1 T20 torx in the underneath part of the dome if that makes sense, take out the under tray by your knees, a couple of torx at the bottom of that pannel, take that off then, behind that the last 2 torx for speedo surround, that just bends out past steering wheel. the couple of torx on actual speedo, then it just pulls out. use some thick double sided tape, or foam, so that it's springy, when you push the speedo back in make sure it's slightly forcing against you if that makes sense
 

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Pushing the dials, they don't seem to be loose at all. There's no give in them.

Not owning a Corsa myself & only an Astra, i can only compare it to mine

& if it's anything similar at all, then it doesn't even need the clocks in to start up. I've had my clocks out plenty of times due to LED conversions & then LEDs blowing & i've driven my car without clocks in at all.

As i say though, i don't know if the Corsa is similar (in that you don't actually NEED the clocks to drive the car)
The car's immobiliser is in the clocks which is why its important for the connection to be secure. It doesn't matter if its tight just the plug in the back needs to be in the plug properly :). Just pushing where the mfd is on the clocks should help diagnose if its the plug.

Also p1616 is normally the fault code for the clocks :)
 

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battery terminals not loose on the positive is it? First off check the battery even if its new it could have dropped a cell meaning it will just drain its self. Then if its not that you need to look plugging it in to see what codes its throwing back at you.

When the ignition is on can you hear the fuel rail priming and the relays clicking at all?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Will check the battery tomorrow when it's light.

Yeah you can hear all the whirring & clicking when you turn the ignition on.

I hooked up opcom tonight & this came back:



Have cleared the memory.

Also, how do you clear "INSP" from the display? I was going to try within opcom but as it's not my own car, i don't want to be responsible for fudging it.
 

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Will check the battery tomorrow when it's light.

Yeah you can hear all the whirring & clicking when you turn the ignition on.

I hooked up opcom tonight & this came back:



Have cleared the memory.

Also, how do you clear "INSP" from the display? I was going to try within opcom but as it's not my own car, i don't want to be responsible for fudging it.
Thats the clocks, take them off and put something behind the plug to make the connection better.

For "INSP":
Press and hold mileage reset

Put key in and turn two clicks

Keep hold of reset button until odometer flashes, take key out and release

Oh and for the dash lights being low push this up:

 

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hold the mileage reset button, and turn the ignition on, it will flash and then read "---", release the button and turn the igntion off
 

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Thats the clocks, take them off and put something behind the plug to make the connection connect better.

For "INSP":
Press and hold mileage reset

Put key in and turn two clicks

Keep hold of reset button until odometer flashes, take key out and release
i fail :(
 
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