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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
A bit of an odd one, and I'm not a garage - just fancied having a play... renewed all gaskets and valve seals, pumps and thermostat, so the engine has had an overhaul.

It turns over on the key and runs with no leaks found or blowing in the exhaust. While waiting for the air pockets to blow out, the engine seems to be making a thrubing, or pulsing, noise, like it's gained an extra 100bhp... meaning, when I place my hand over the exhaust, you can feel a slight vacuum!

Have I put a water pipe on back to front, or have I knocked the timing out by a tooth, or it something else; also the oil light is on, even though it has about 3ltrs of oil in it??

Thanks in advance for any ideas or suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
as an update... both the oil light and the air seems to be out now. just chugging away still; not the normal steady revs. may have to give it a run-out, just to see if it needs running in!!

Update:: shuts down, starts up ok. runs fine.. Speeds up, slows down ok, no stalling or hick ups. No leaks, water and oil levels are holding!

I'm going to air on the side of time or tuning... I'll hook it up toorrow. Is anyone able to see where the issue lays?
 

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Welcome to CCUK. I'm not much help, but it might help the clued-up members here if you mention the engine type and year. Hope you're sorted soon.

EDIT: guessing it's the 3-pot one litre? Going by the amount of oil in.
 

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check to see you have put the cams back in the correct way round. They will fit either way but the electronic side of the timing will be out.
cam lobes on cylinder 1 (water pump end) should both be facing in wards.
It is critical that the cam phase disc is in the correct position in regards to cam timing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
check to see you have put the cams back in the correct way round. They will fit either way but the electronic side of the timing will be out.
cam lobes on cylinder 1 (water pump end) should both be facing in wards.
It is critical that the cam phase disc is in the correct position in regards to cam timing.
Hi Corsaz

After reading both yours and Marks post... While I'm sure Marks approach would have provided some amusement! 😂, I went back to the start.

I took the cam cover off, made sure all head bolts were pinched up to torque, then set about ensuring everything from crank to cam were in sync... I used both phase disk and cam lock-off bar.

I know that both cams are in the right order or sides, as when I renewed the valve seals, I left the phase disk on the rear cam, (I'd previously renewed the chain and sprockets before they went @ 100k), and everything was working fine up until the start of this post.

Anyway, now I've timed the engine to an inch of its life, even caught a dodgy earth point, I've now developed a completely different issue!! 😣

There seems to be back pressure coming from somewhere, as if there's a blockage; bearing in mind, I've blown throw all pipes with an airline... Meaning, there's now quite a major backfire through the throttle body. I've checked the TB, and it self-tests, and whether I manually open it or let the TB do it itself, it still blows out.

Needless to say, the car's starter turns the engine, but won't start up, just backfires??

UPDATE:: forgot to add... The brake peddle is much harder to press compared to what it was like beforehand. I've also tested the coil pack and fuel line... The fuel line is feeding fuel and the coil pack with a sparkplug in it - gives off a spark!?

UPDATE::
 

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That sounds like it has 1 a flat battery and 2 very little if any compression.
Without the maf connected the ecu will not see any air flow over it and not know what fuel to inject as well.
Until the engine is running the brake pedal will be hard as you have no vacuum assist to the brake servo. Also check for air leaks in the pipe to the servo.
What did you use to lock your crank shaft? there are 2 notches in the crank and without the correct tool you can easily lock the crank in the wrong one.
Do you have a code reader? are any faults present? can you see engine speed from the crank sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That sounds like it has 1 a flat battery and 2 very little if any compression.
Without the maf connected the ecu will not see any air flow over it and not know what fuel to inject as well.
Until the engine is running the brake pedal will be hard as you have no vacuum assist to the brake servo. Also check for air leaks in the pipe to the servo.
What did you use to lock your crank shaft? there are 2 notches in the crank and without the correct tool you can easily lock the crank in the wrong one.
Do you have a code reader? are any faults present? can you see engine speed from the crank sensor?
Normally its only weekends i have to do this, but its annoying me now, so I'm going to have a look tonight!

There have been no codes flagged up as yet, i used the proper tools... the cam lock off bar and phase lock only fit one way, by design, i would say the ends are cut to provent mistakes.

As you say about compression, that's what I'll check tonight... I'll see if it's coming from the crank shaft area.
 

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If you have raised the cylinder head, pour a small jet of oil to the pistons where the spark plug is, so that they work greased between the start and the oil does not reach the top, it may also be that it malfunctions due to a lot of air, try to cover something the butterfly with the hand to help you start, or directly mount the intake well and give it, you can also help yourself with a little sprsy auto starter to help you start
 
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