I would still suspect the timing chain. The noise is suppressed quite noticeably by thicker oil (some people use 10w40 rather than 5w30 for this very reason, when the car is to be run into the ground and a chain replacement is not economically justifiable). Of course, the viscosity of the oil thins as the engine warms up - after about 10 miles or so, as it happens. Someone on here (I think z22se, who will doubtless come in with better advice soon) suggests placing a decent sized screwdriver (with a solid plastic or suchlike handle) onto the cam cover with the engine running and putting your ear against the handle. The tell-tale ticking of a loose chain will be rather obvious, then.

EDIT: Captain Obvious, but not the ideal time to wear a tie or any loose, flapping clothing while doing this.

 

What He said! ^^^

I have always used 10w40 or 15w40 semi synthetic in my Vauxhalls. The 10w40 is approved for use in these engines by Vauxhall and the 15w40 was free.
When did it last have an oil and filter change? It should be done every 5000 miles or once a year. leaving it to 10,000 as it suggests in the hand book is far to long.
The timing chains do get noisy but usually its all the time and worse as the oil gets hotter.Another common fault is for the oil pick up tube to block and cause low oil pressure which will i turn cause a ticking. Sump removal to clean this out, new gasket and exhaust gasket required for this.

As you have an Exhaust leak this also needs to be fixed as they can also cause a ticking noise. Check for soot marks around all joints, be very careful if the engine is hot though as the cat will stay hot for a while.

 

Thanks guys,

Its not been serviced since Ive owned it (coming upto 12 months) but I've only done 3000 miles.Would you suggest a full service and see if this surpresses it, OR take it to a garage for the exact reason its making a noise?

Can anyone point out the cam cover and I'll try do the screwdriver test.

Its just baffling that it never used to do this.

I will take it to the garage and ask for his advice but thank you for the answers so far.

I've justr tried add some Wynns Hydraulic Valve Fliter Lifter Treatment, not sure if this would help or not but was suggested a few times elsewhere, will report back on this.

Many thanks,

Alex

 

I would do a full service and clean the sump and pick up tube out. Simple enough for a diyer to do at home with basic tools.
The cam cover is plastic so the screw driver test needs to be done on the bolt heads that hold it down or the head just below the cover around the sides/ends.
This is the cam cover on my old Z12XEP 1.2 twinport Corsa C

 

I'm glad z22se clarified my "cam cover" comment - the big plastic thing is not the ideal listening post . I have a belt-driven diesel so my mental picture was a bit fuzzy. As you've had the car a year and previous history is a bit unknown, it's worth replacing/checking all the consumables. If not DIYing and your local indy has no objection (mine doesn't mind in the least) you can source oil and filters yourself and save a fair bit. A kit with the air and oil filter (sometimes cabin filter) on ebay comes in really cheap. In my case, very often the filters are Comline and are more than capable at the price.

Often, garages don't do the cabin filter but I'd recommend it - especially if you have AC - and it's very much a DIY. A bit fiddly on RHD (mine's LHD) Corsas because the battery wiring gets in the way but no horrible gunk to dispose nor pricey tools needed.

If you have a Tesco clubcard (I don't - they used to have periodic offers but seems to be just for clubcards now) you can get suitable oil and also Redex half price.

 

I'm going to change the Oil Filter myself see if that makes any difference. Im not experienced enough to clean the sump and pick up tube out.

I havent had chance to do the screwdriver test yet.

I have booked the car into a local garage I trust on Monday, I will mention it to them.

It is worth stating the noise has got gradually lower since the hydraulic lifter fluid and the extra oil. It is barely audible but when I open the bonnet the clicking / ticking sound is extremely audible.

PS could this be related to a faulty water pump at all?

 

If it was the water pump the noise would not have changed with adding the extra oil and lifter fluid. The water pump would be noisy all the time as well.

 

Hi,

Done a complete engine oil filter change and oil change and still no change.

I have managed to do the screwdriver test and the only thing that sounds abnormal is on the bar behind the engine (held in with 2 screws with little ends on them to make it easier to unscrew).

I’ve taken a video from inside the vehicle too where you can clearly hear rattling. It’s weird inside the car it’s a rattle, bonnet open it’s a ticking noise?

Also added a video :

It does sound worse on the video than it actually is.

Any more ideas?

 

Also Im reading a lot RE the Purge Valve? Which does seem close to the area I circled in red?

 

It could well be the purge valve? Hard to say from a video and be certain?
The bar sounds like it may be the fuel injector rail, these will tick as the injectors open and close.

 

I assumed you had a Corsa C, not a 2105 E, so my "cabin filter change" video is irrelevant to you - sorry. Still worth doing, although it's not your priority right now.

 

UPDATE: Vauxhall today are replacing the timing chain (free of charge woo).

Im adamant it will not stop the ticking.

I have a strong feeling the PCR valve has gone which causes the fuel lines (attached to the chassis) by the looks of it to vibrate hence the knocking noise. I will report back!



Not a problem, I did find it useful and I decided to change mine too! Pain in the ass though had to remove the glove box and the filter is actually inside the cabin on the E. Very fiddly to get it in!

 

The fuel tank evap valves are not expensive to replace.
That's a bonus getting the chains done for free! Needed or not if it's free why not

 

Ive found them on eBay for around £20 but EuroCar Parts are charging £78? What would you suggest?

 

My Combo is lhd and the battery-windscreen reservoir positions are reversed so that cabin filter is no fiddle at all, my Modus in Spain has the filter access inside but also straightforward. It is annoying when removing the glove box and suchlike is involved but even when it's easy so many places don't carry out a regular replacement. I did the '05 Modus myself soon after buying it (from an indie garage) and it was total filth.

Your free timing chain change is a welcome result. They're not expected to need as often a swap as the belts but a fresh one after 6yrs is nice peace of mind.

 

Yeh it definitely hasn't had a cabin filter change, the thing was black and disgusting, even if not been serviced since last year i could tell it must have been in for longer than that.

Can anyone help RE the cost of the PR Valve? I can literally get a £20 on eBay, but a reputable online car spares website (ECP) are charging £70?

 

Ideally you want to try and find either a Bosch, Siemens, Pierburg or Delphi part. Vauxhalls can have problems with electronic cheap parts.

 

Update:

So the car has been returned back from Vauxhall who have replaced the timing chain and tensioner (in their comments it said front tesnsioner weak) so they have replaced the entire system.

Guess what .. the car still knocks!!! Arghh!!

I've ordered a new Fuel Tank Breather Valve (gm55566514) as when I hold the valve it does feel like its vibrating. Luckily Vauxhall have done the timing chain (and as a complientary service cleaned up my rear brakes that were squeaking) for free so a new timing chain at 30,000 miles is never a bad thing.

I am collecting the valve tomorrow, I've seen a few YouTube videos on how to replace it, does anyone think this will finally stop the knocking noise inside the cabin!

Cheers,
Alex

 

If the car is still covered by warranty I would have thought they would also do the valve when they did they chain?

 

Purge Valve replaced, ticking noise persists. I'm running out of options and starting to think its the Tappets (im not even sure what they are).

 

Take it back to the dealer if it's still under warranty. Complain about the noise.
If they say its ok go to another dealer.

 

Update:

Thought I’d stick with it and see how it went. Sometimes it ticks sometimes it doesn’t.

However today arrived at work with quite a loud knocking / tapping noise from the engine. Turned the engine off and the back on again and the knocking had stopped straight away?

Can this point to another component or help track down what’s causing it? I initially thought it was just when hot but surely the Engine restart solving it rules out that problem.

cheers,
Alex

 

Hi Alex,

Did you ever get to the bottom of this as we have the same problem?! Haven't treid the Purge Valve yet, but will do that next based on your feedback.

Any help/advice is would be much appriciated!

Thanks
Rich

 

Without seeing the car I couldn't say anymore.
Take it back to the dealer and complain. All my Z12 and Z14XEP's have been quiet hot or cold.

 

it’s definitely the Purge Valve.

Drove home. Ticking. Disconnected the power cable to it No ticking inside the cabin.

Re-connected it and the ticking started again ….

The only problem now is because the valve has already been replaced brand new could something else be the problem, or what is the best thing to do now?

 

Is it how the valve is mounted? On the Corsa C it is on the air box. Cant remember where it was on the Corsa D? but having used 2 of them for a while neither made any strange noises?