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Crazy idea, what if one of the valves springs broke? And valve just stays open? Have you had a good visual around all 4 valves springs?
 

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Can you not leave the manifold on and undo the 3 or 4 bolts on the bottom of the cat. Once the heads off you can work on it then.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Crazy idea, what if one of the valves springs broke? And valve just stays open? Have you had a good visual around all 4 valves springs?
They all look pretty normal. I can't see anything on top of the head that looks out of place. :( Thanks for the idea though.

Can you not leave the manifold on and undo the 3 or 4 bolts on the bottom of the cat. Once the heads off you can work on it then.
That would make it a lot easier! I didn't know there were bolts there. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #46
You can't take the cylinder head off with removing the exhaust manifold as you need to get to the oil filter housing, I think, before you can remove the cylinder head and the exhaust manifold covers the bolts for that.

Three of the bolts for the exhaust manifold are recessed into hills that are too narrow for my sockets, any ideas?

Three studs have snapped off, one bolt came off, one nut is rusted smooth and one rusted so the socket can't even be hammered on. Any ideas would be appreciated. Should I just drill them all off? I've soaked them overnight with lots of WD40 and tried to heat one of the ones that snapped off.

I have managed to move the radiator so I have some access, but the air con means it's not possible to remove it, though there's probably no gas in the system.

Also, the dip stick seems stuck. It won't even hammer out from the other side. Ideas on this would be appreciated though I'm speaking out with WD40 at the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
I'm waiting on a very long socket to try to get the exhaust manifold off, so I've had the last two days off. The studs are snapping off though, even with WD 40 and heating, so I've got a lot of them to remove, but the head is almost off and then I can see what the problem is!
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Thanks, Dan!

I managed to get the cylinder head off! Feeling quite pleased with myself.

I guess this is good and bad news, the head gasket is intact and the valves look fine. They pop open and closed the same as on the other cylinders, and don't appear damaged. This wasn't quite what I was expecting. What now? Logic tells me to put it all back together and see if it still misfires but that's far too long winded and I know it probably would misfire still.

What could be the cause of the lack of compression. What should be my next step. I'd really appreciate some advice here.

I could send the cylinder head to be reconditioned, but there doesn't seem to be anything wrong with it and that's a lot of money just on the off-chance that there's something wrong with it.

35318
35319
35320
 

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Put the plugs back in and turn the head upside down and fill the cylinder recess with water and see if any disappears. It should hold water. If it goes then the valves are leaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
The water did indeed drain away. I'm not sure why this problem started with the timing chain change though. I guess I'll need to lap the valve in. Thank you, Mark!
 

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I wanted to suggest petrol testing, not water, but if it leaks with water ... Test all cylinders!
If you’re so far and remove the valves, lap them all. Change valve seals. There’s an excellent youtube video about valves lapping, search for cylinder head 105 - valve job basics.
 

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Keep in mind, valves normally twist. At least one, or even two, got a hit in the piston. Put the valves on a drill and see if the're bent. If yes, consider changing the valve guides also. I would let professionals do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
That light area does look suspicious doesn't it? The timing has never been out, though. I think the timing tools were in the whole time I was doing the car. The light patches look in real life like discolouration. There isn't any actual damage visible to my eyes. I'll check on the piston in the morning though. It's possible I made a mistake and moved valves or cylinder while the tools were out, but I don't think it happened. It would explain why there's now a misfire though.

I really do need to do this as cheaply as possible, so I'll try to do it myself. Thank you very much for the advice and the video link!
 

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Discussion Starter #60
How much do you think it would cost to have the valves reseated professionally? IT's something like £200 to have the cylinder head refurbished according to the ads on e-bay. If it's just a couple of valves am I likely to be able to get it done locally for a lot less than the full refurbishment? Where should I be looking to get quotes from/get it done?
 
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