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Discussion Starter #61
There are indeed corresponding marks on the piston. Not dents so much as silver marks. And it fits in with the engine being locked into TCD on pistons 1 and 4. Possibly when I was putting the camshaft locking tool in I did it. I'm so stupid! But you live and learn. Hopefully it won't be too expensive of a mistake. At least I now know what happened, despite my denials to the contrary. I couldn't have done this without all the help from everyone on here, so a big thank you to you all! It's not over yet, but hopefully the end is in sight.
 

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New valves and stem seals and I'm sure it will be like new. Might be worth checking valve guides while it's off.
 

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Zelphium, if it makes you feel any better, I've been reading this thread and it's way past what I'd be confident tackling and your updates make a good 'warts and all' read for anyone else to follow. Far too many threads can be frustrating dead ends when people either give up or don't want to flag up making an error that could happen to anyone. Chapeau for sticking with the task and the reports (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Thank you! I've had cylinder heads off before, done many piston rings too, but never on a car with an overhead camshaft. I always thought it was terribly difficult, and it has caused this massive hiccup of the valves getting damaged, but in fact it's not a problem, you just have to use the timing tools and lock things in one place.

What I have found to be a problem though is things getting jammed after 16 years, the difficulty of doing things for the first time (it's so much quicker the second time!), lack of space to fit tools in (though jacking the engine up and down has helped hugely), having the engine mountings attached to the timing chain cover, and having the darn air conditioning pump in the way. As long as you have the Haynes manual and a basic large and small socket set, torx sockets/ bits plus some basic tools like screwdriver, long nosed pliers, mole grips etc and of course axle stands it's really quite straight forward. I have needed a drill and a Dremel as well to get the last of the exhaust manifold nuts off!

I might do a new post when all is done putting what I've found and tools needed in one place. I haven't fixed this car myself out of a desire to do so but rather to save a tonne of money I can't afford, but I have had the time to do so as well. It's actually been a lot of fun in hindsight, even if it has been stressful at the time. It's felt like an achievement, and something that persevering with is slowly conquering!
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Also, I have to say, the Corsa is the nicest car I've ever had! It's a lot newer and smaller than other cars I've had, but I just love it!
 

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Discussion Starter #67
I tried to drill out the studs today. I need to wait for new valves and associated paraphernalia to arrive before I start on that, hopefully tomorrow. Drilling the holes was OK, but the cheap stud removal kit I got on ebay snapped in the hole. I think because it's hardened it blunted my drill bits trying to drill that out as well. I'm changing tack and will try a chuck type remover and failing that fluted type removers, which should arrive on Monday. Also I'm going to try a T27 torx bit socket.
 

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There’s only one kit which works ok. I had this problem before and I tried a cheap removal bit.
However, this kit costs as much as a second hand engine, so not ok for this job now.
 

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I had this on my Z18XE project:




Drilled in the middle of it:


Hammered the corresponding stud in it:



And rotate it out. Stud has 6 sharp edges which fix into the broken bolt. Very elegant and effective solution.




Now sit on a chair. This is the Facom extraction kit:
 
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