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54 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Some photos of the process and the change would be helpful, to help others who suffer the breakdown and you get a good brico
Good idea. Cant see why not. People have helped me on here so it’d be good to return a favour to others.
Il do that tomorrow then, il take pictures as I’m going along and then do a full write up of what I did once it’s done tomorrow evening on this thread.
cheers 💪

54 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·

So I did the job today and as @jewels mentioned, I have written a write up below of what I did along with pictures to maybe help people who suffer the same issue as this. I would just like to say that I am not a professional mechanic, but do have a fair amount of tools and am a competent mechanic, there's not a lot I won't try my hand on.

So firstly, I gave the bolts a really good douse in WD40, and a good scrub with the wire brush to try get rid of a bit of the corrosion ready for job today.

Thanks to the guys on this forum, I used the tip of using a block of wood between a trolley jack and the gearbox itself to jack it up slightly so take the weight of the box off of the mount itself.

Once I had jacked the box up slightly, I was then able to take the two bolts that hold the mount bracket onto the box off. These are E18 Female Torx bolts (pictured socket)

I had my breaker bar at the ready and extension, however the bolts on mine were already loose which I suspect is due to excess vibration, so I was able to just loosen them and take them off using just the socket itself. I would expect however that you would need to use a breaker bar or at least a normal extension normally.

Once these were off, the next part was taking the small 4 bolts off that hold the mount to the body of the car.
These are small E14 female torx socket required (pictured). In my case the e14 I had was for 3/8 ratchets, however I have a set of adapters, so in this case used a 1/2 female to 3/8 male adapter.

These small bolts came off fairly easy, and once they were all off the mount came loose. Next step was to disconnect the clutch pipe from the clip/holder, and then wriggle the old mount out. This didn't take long, removal only took me around 30 mins.

Next part was getting the new one on, which proved to be much trickier than I thought. I expected that because it came out fairly easily, it would go in easily, but for me this wasn't the case. It just would not go in the body no matter how hard i tried, at angles etc etc. So for me I had to drop the box further with the jack to the point that the only thing supporting the box was the bottom mount and the suspension crossmember, and only at this point did it give me enough room to slide the mount into the body and bolt up.
Because of this however, when i jacked it back up, it was sort of going up at an angle and wasn't meeting the two holes on the bracket. A lot of jacking up and down to get to a point they almost met, I then put the two bolts through to just hold the box where it was, so i could release the jack and jack it up closer to where the mount is so that it would align. I then loosened the bolts and tightened them once it was aligned. As I say it took a lot of jacking up and down to get them to align, but did get there in the end.

I got the breaker bar on them to ensure they were fully tightened up before releasing the jack. I then reconnected the clutch pipe to its clip and lowered the jack. the mount held and has now stopped clunking!!

here is a comparison of the new mount next to the old one, its fairly clear to see how shot it was..

I hope this helps someone, however it is not a tutorial, more of a walkthrough of what I did.

thanks to Andy and everyone else for assisting on this thread. Another job on my scrapper done!
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