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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
I saw a post from 2013 similar to my problem that one of you members had and was wondering if they found out what the issue was.
I have recently got a XC Barina which I believe is the same as a Corsa C and I am having troubles with it and am running out of ideas. It starts some times and at other times it has no fuel pressure and no injector pulse yet it has spark and will run if fuel put down throttle body. Except today it would not.

below is what has happened and what I have done.


I bought the car for the kids to learn to drive in and a cheap shopping run around. also apart from a 1999 model Barina i have had no other experience with this type of car as i usually work on larger cars (V6 Commodores).

I have no idea as to previous history apart from it just having been serviced and a new timing belt changed in Jan 21 and according to the sticker it’s only done 3350 k’s since then (has 171547 k’s on it now).

I took it for a test drive and had no issues apart from a noise coming from the alternator area that sounds like a power steering low on fluid. On way home about 10-12 k’s I noticed a slight engine miss at 80 km/h, it felt like the engine stopped running but was only fraction of second, tacho didn’t show any loss. Thought that it was spark plug / coil issue.

I replaced spark plugs, didn't fix it. replaced coil pack, no change, it was starting without any issues but there was this miss but it was happening at about 2 – 5 k’s now so I started to think that it was the crank angle sensor on its way out.

On one trip it refused to start when turned off but started after about 1/2 hour, so I thought it was a crank angle sensor. When this happened it started but then stopped straightaway then would not start. Tried to check relays for fuel pump but this model has a picture but no names attached to tell what they are for. This happened once again and started after about a couple of hours, after this non it wouldn't start at all even as it had been parked overnight.

So I checked for fuel pressure by pushing in fuel line Schrader valve after trying to start no fuel came out (new fuel pressure gauge is coming in mail), checked fuel pump relay not working and fuse ok, jumped fuel pump relay terminals to make fuel pump work and fuel came out fuel line Schrader valve test fitting. Swapped relays and no fuel pump. Tried to start car with relay terminals jumped so pump was running and no start, could not hear injectors working.

Pushed it into corner of yard and ordered a crank angle sensor. Tried to start over next couple of days and nothing. New crank angle sensor arrived and before I put in it I just checked the key again and it started, actually it started several times with no issues. As I had a new sensor I put it in anyway, no change. It still had a miss driving it around the block.

Any way it is hard to diagnose something when it is sort of working so had been driving it around on short trips (within walking distance from home) and it stopped again (luckily outside of the yard). It was the same as before with no fuel being pumped to fuel rail. Started to think that it could be a blockage in the fuel filter. Anyway decided to go back to basics and as I could not check to see if there was spark due to the coil being directly connected to the plugs I poured fuel down throttle body and car started and ran ok and I was able to back it up onto car ramps so I could change the fuel filter (as I had a spare for the VT (Commodore sedan model) and they are the same) but would not start again without fuel being put down throttle body.

I have checked the fuel pressure from the pump and it is 55 PSI with the motor not running but after many attempts to start it today with fuel down the throttle body it would not start so i could not get a reading on when the pump and injectors cut in on what the running pressure is

any help would be appreciated thank you.
 

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Have you got a code reader? Plugging the car in can be very useful to track faults.
It does sound like a fault with crank or cam sensors though?
I am guessing as you have the XC model (same as UK SRI) it is a z18xe engine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi, yes i have but it is a cheap online one that a friend gave me because it did not fit his car (mind you it did not fit any of mine either until this one).
I ran the reader and no codes came up.
No it is a Z14XE motor (1.4L).
I have not done the in car code read yet to see if any codes show up there.
I am leaning more towards a faulty sensor that controls both the fuel pump and injectors by not letting them work until a condition is met. as when I bypass that command by putting fuel down the throttle body it starts and runs until you turn it off, then it wont start again.
I have tried looking in my useless Haynes manual and it does not have any wiring diagrams for any of the fuel system so I cannot back trace wires without taking apart the loom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I had the battery disconnected overnight as i wanted to have a look under the fuse panel to check for loose wires and to see if it re-set anything and then tried to get it running again using the fuel down the throttle body, t runs but only on what is poured down the body. It is not starting at all at the moment.

I ran the in car codes and they don't seem to make any sense. they are (as they came up);
1614 Serial Communication with Device 14 (RIM, Radio Interface Module)
0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow
0230 Fuel Pump Primary Circuit
1530 Throttle Control System - Amplifier Adjustment
0460 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit
0443 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit
then 1230 twice which I assume means that all folks..
 

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I am useless with a spanner, but I am wondering about water/oil/crud in the ECU. If you're getting a lot of nonsensical "this sensor and this sensor and this sensor are malfunctioning" - and commensurate running misbehaviour, it's a possibility that the ECU itself is imploding.
 

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This thread deals with P1614 which is an immobiliser fault code,

The P1230 and P0230 both relate to the fuel pump relay circuit and could have been set when you tested the relay.

The P0400 is an EGR fault code.
The P0443 is the fuel tank vent/purge valve. These 2 codes code be related to the same power supply issue as they are feed from the same relay and through the same 6 pin plug between the body front and engine looms. It will be on the end of the engine above the gearbox.

P1530 is down to either the throttle pedal and throttle body positions are not matched (did you push the throttle body open at any point with the key on? That could put this code up) or the same 6 pin plug as above as the code can be set when the MAF sensor has a fault which also draws power through the same plug.

P0460 is a miss match between what the fuel level sensor is reading and what the gauge is displaying. The connector under the rear seat on L/H side of the car can get water in it and create codes or as you have the code P1614 with the immobilizer circuit it code be the plug on the back of the dials. This should be on a fly lead and not fixed to the dash panel plastic behind the dials, there was a recall for this to cut plastic away around the plug connector from the dash then push plug on to the back of dials and secure with strong tape. I would be checking this plug and connection to the dials first as the dials form part of the Immobiliser circuit.

You also need to get all these codes deleted then see which ones come up again and work through them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This thread deals with P1614 which is an immobiliser fault code,

The P1230 and P0230 both relate to the fuel pump relay circuit and could have been set when you tested the relay.

The P0400 is an EGR fault code.
The P0443 is the fuel tank vent/purge valve. These 2 codes code be related to the same power supply issue as they are feed from the same relay and through the same 6 pin plug between the body front and engine looms. It will be on the end of the engine above the gearbox.

P1530 is down to either the throttle pedal and throttle body positions are not matched (did you push the throttle body open at any point with the key on? That could put this code up) or the same 6 pin plug as above as the code can be set when the MAF sensor has a fault which also draws power through the same plug.

P0460 is a miss match between what the fuel level sensor is reading and what the gauge is displaying. The connector under the rear seat on L/H side of the car can get water in it and create codes or as you have the code P1614 with the immobilizer circuit it code be the plug on the back of the dials. This should be on a fly lead and not fixed to the dash panel plastic behind the dials, there was a recall for this to cut plastic away around the plug connector from the dash then push plug on to the back of dials and secure with strong tape. I would be checking this plug and connection to the dials first as the dials form part of the Immobiliser circuit.

You also need to get all these codes deleted then see which ones come up again and work through them.
Hi, Thanks Corsaz22se,

Ha! the P1614 code I thought it had something to do with the radio :) the previous owner had changed the standard key to a aftermarket flip type key holder could this be messing with the immobiliser circuit?

Yeah I couldn't find the what P1230 code was for so as it came up twice i thought that it was just a code for "end of codes"
yes I did but not with the key on, was checking for condition of butterfly and if any carbon /dirt.

I have checked the fuel pump connections and they are tight and dry, it does have a secondhand fuel pump assembly from an auto wreckers in it though.

how do you remove the codes as i had thought that I had with the ebay plug in scanner?

I am just getting my sons car ready for a registration inspection and will check out the plugs behind the dash after that.

thank you for your information it has helped me peruse another route
 

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The fuel pump connector at the rear of the car is the other side under the rear seats to where the top of the fuel tank is. I'm not sure if it unplugs from under the car or under the seats. It also has the wires for the rear ABS sensor.
You may need a better code reader tom clear the codes fully?
 

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I had (still have) one of those cheap, few quid, OBDII readers and the free mobile app Torque Lite. Even without paying a few more quid for Torque in full, the free app allows codes to be cleared. Worked on my Modus and the Combo Tour.
 
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