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Discussion Starter #1
For upgrading the front brakes, I would like to give more distribution to the rear brakes to compensate, at least my car always brakes badly in the back even with a handbrake, we change cable shoes and it remains the same, there is no way to anchor I imagine that by not having abs, it would be giving one or two laps to the engine compartment brake distributor, right? So the bypass valve opens and it will send more flow, am I wrong? any advice helps
 

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On non ABS Corsa C's there is a restrictor for each rear brake line. (small orifice) which limits the flow of fluid to the rear.
It would be un wise to messy about with this as to much rear brake effort will result in the back end locking up and the car spinning under hard braking.
Even with uprated front brakes you should not need to do much to the rears if they are working correctly. You could swap to the ABS rear drums as they are wider or fit a complete rear beam from the 1.8 with disc's.
I have the Brembo 4 pot front brakes from the Corsa D VXR with Saab 316mm brake disks on my SRi with the standard rear disc's and never had a problem with rear brakes as the fronts do all the work.
I also had 280mm brakes on the front of my 1.2 daily with drums on the rear and never had a problem.
You can buy brake bias adjuster valves but they are more for those building track cars for racing or drifting.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Here the 1.8 are a unicorn that does not exist, the delivery man that you say butt according to the weight I already took it to the top, and even so it seems a lie how little they brake, they pass itv on the brake but neither fully pedal nor handbrake to They all block the car, I know that it is bad that they block in a curve, the distributor next to the antifreeze will regulate something with the nuts or are they only holding the pipes? you know the whole car eh hahaha
 

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The Combo 1.7CDTi axle is an easier option for me to have rear discs, but I don't think that works for the Corsa. z22se is right, though - under braking all the weight shifts to the front so it shouldn't be necessary to upgrade the rear brakes so much. The drum rear brakes act sufficiently in driving but as a parking brake they are useless. Even though I have mine adjusted constantly, I have to pull the handbrake up to my armpit for even a slight incline within a few days of adjustment.
 

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My rear drum brakes work very well if they are adjusted correctly and cables lubed up.

If you want to try adding more fluid to the rear get another pair of restrictors and drill the holes larger, going up in 0.1mm increments. How ever I would not recommend you do this!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Man, the problem is mainly suffered by the handbrake, which does not strain like other cars, but does it badly, causing you to have to pull like a colossus to hold the car on a rise or to start on it, with which the foot brake does not act or is not noticeable, if the handbrake takes body over tension in the thread but the drums on the road end up being braked from the heat they take, as they do not have a working midpoint, it is as if they were disconnected or braked by themselves
 

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Yes, Jewels, the handbrake is absolutely horrible and we are not the only ones to notice it. I'm not useful with the spanners like z22se and marks152 (who keep them working well) but my UK garage are good people and I ask them to make adjustments every time. For a few days it's great but by the time I have got from England to Malaga (4-5 days) I am pulling with both hands to the very last ratchet stop to keep the car stationary on even small inclines. It is by far the most annoying thing on my Tour. My Focus has rear drums and I didn't even realise until I had owned the car 11 years because they are very effective.
 

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I would suggest that you both have problems with your hand brake cables, the plastic guides at each corner get full of dirt and need to be removed, cleaned, greased and replaced at least yearly. The cables can also swell and jam here so not all the force goes to the brake drums.
Also the condition of the drum and shoes will effect how well the hand brake works, the self adjusters are not very good like most vehicles they need manual adjustment as well. There was a time when removing brake drums was part of the standard service for nearly all vehicles. Removing cleaning, inspecting re assembling and adjusting 24 commercial vehicle brake drums in a day when doing trailer servicing is not much fun and why it often gets left out.
 

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Thanks, I've talked to the garage and I believe they've removed the drums but I'll talk to them about what you've detailed when it's brought back to use in Spring. I don't care if it takes time or new cables - it just drives me nuts, especially on the drives to and around Malaga where flat roads are not common.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
z22 in case of putting the tambored abs is it necessary to change it entirely? Or just putting shoes and a lid on the drum where they brake is enough? without touching the base that goes to the shaft and piston?
 

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Not sure if you would need the whole brake assembly or just new shoes and drums? Pity you are not local as I have a complete ABS drum brake rear beam from a 36K mile Tigra B just sitting in the shed and a pair of spare drum brake assemblies.
 

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No the face where the wheel bolts on is the same distance from the axle beam. The drum is tapered on non ABS models so they have a smaller brake width.
 
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