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Discussion Starter #1,121
Yesterday I removed the remains of the engine, that's a tight squeeze with the gearbox still in situ.



Then pulled out piston 1 to have a look and was surprised to find the piston hasn't failed, the pin has walked out of the conrod into the bore, also mangling the rod and crank due to the thrust load. If the engine had run hard any longer it would have probably broken the piston as there is only 1-2 millimetres of pin in the opposite side.



 

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Discussion Starter #1,123
Bought a 'low' mileage engine from ebay for £220, tore it down and the claim of 40k miles looks plausible.

Honing marks still clearly visible in the bores


and quite a clean cylinder head


I'll also post these photos of the sump and adapter for the oil pump I use as i've been asked about it a few times but never took any photos..
Aluminium adapter bolts on to the original pump where the standard oil pick up pipe would.



and lines up with the integral pickup on the sump, the factory orifice is an odd shape so to ensure it seals i made the small aluminium infill panel with the square hole.


next job is to finish cleaning up the block and drop it off for machining.
 

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Are you not going to put a 2.0 in or are you sticking with the 1.8? Love the car by the way,the attention to detail is off the chart one of the best builds I’ve seen


It’s only nuts and bolts,don’t be afraid!!
 

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Discussion Starter #1,125
Are you not going to put a 2.0 in or are you sticking with the 1.8? Love the car by the way,the attention to detail is off the chart one of the best builds I’ve seen
Thanks for the compliment, I'll be staying with the 1.8 for my base engine. Putting in a 2 litre is far too easy.
 

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Ok what power are you trying to get too,what are the pistons rated at? I think this will end up being the most developed Corsa C 1.8 in the country soon


It’s only nuts and bolts,don’t be afraid!!
 

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Discussion Starter #1,127
This engine only needs to be a reliable sustained 310bhp ish ,that would be a power to weight ratio of 300bhp/ton. Things I learn from this will determine what goes into the next engine build which will be a slightly smaller displacement to fit competition rules.
 

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This engine only needs to be a reliable sustained 310bhp ish ,that would be a power to weight ratio of 300bhp/ton. Things I learn from this will determine what goes into the next engine build which will be a slightly smaller displacement to fit competition rules.
What comp you going into il have a google thanks


It’s only nuts and bolts,don’t be afraid!!
 

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Discussion Starter #1,129
The car will probably do some cscc open class races or 750mc all comers races, I don't have the time and money to do full championships. Eventually it will also do some circuit rally championship rounds
 

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I’ve had a look what class on the cscc are you doing there’s quite a few that Cecil could enter,I wouldn’t mind doing something similar but with a standard car how do I get into it and what’s the cheapest to go racing, I don’t want to do track days,I want a proper race thanks


It’s only nuts and bolts,don’t be afraid!!
 

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Discussion Starter #1,131
No such thing as cheap and racing.. first you'll need to get a race license, which means passing a medical and a test that's about £450. Safety gear, overalls, helmet etc at least a £1000.
The only competition that allows completely standard cars is hill climbing, sprinting and time attack, all of which are against the clock usually one at a time on track so not racing as such.
Club registration varies but £100 for the year, race entry fees £300+ a time, £4000 would buy you a car ready to go in most hatch/saloon championships. Then fuel,tyres, something to tow the car, a trailer.. then extra for practice days,breakage, crash damage.
 

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Ok maybe not then,too expensive for me lol when will you be down east anglia/Bedfordshire areas I’d love to see Cecil in all its glory


It’s only nuts and bolts,don’t be afraid!!
 

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Discussion Starter #1,133
Only a small update.
Block and head back from machining



checking and adjusting the piston ring gaps



Checking the bearing clearances




All needs a proper clean now and then I can start to re assemble it.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,134
gave the bores a good scrub then test fitted the pistons to check the deck clearance


then fitted the rings to the pistons


Now awaiting gaskets,seals etc so I can continue.
 

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Wow, what a build thread, some amazing work and time put into this project..... I'm guessing this cars not on the road very often ??... I live in LS10 ( Sissons Road ) and have never seen this car around, then again I dont suppose I would with all the speedbumps around our streets lol
 

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Discussion Starter #1,137
Wow, what a build thread, some amazing work and time put into this project..... I'm guessing this cars not on the road very often ??... I live in LS10 ( Sissons Road ) and have never seen this car around, then again I dont suppose I would with all the speedbumps around our streets lol
You're only 1.5 miles (ish) from me. He usually gets out most dry weekends in the summer and autumn but not yet this year due to the broken engine, the speed bumps aren't a problem as he almost straddles them width ways and isn't that low..
 

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I will keep an eye out in the future for him when he is back on the road but to be honest I would remember seeing this car.. very distinctive, all the best with the Engine rebuild pal :)
 

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Wow a lot has happened since I last checked out the thread. Haven't watched the vids yet but I'm up to date on progress! Are the pistons and rods off the shelf items? What compression ratio are you looking to achieve? Sorry if we've covered this on our chats.

Also, the adaptor on the oil pump?! What is this....
 

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Discussion Starter #1,140
The pistons and rods are dbilas off the shelf items, I think they are nominally 9.1:1 compression but the head's been skimmed so it will be slightly higher. The oil pump adaptor allows me to run the z18xer sump, if you recall, the EFR turbo is quite large and the only way to fit it was with the exhaust to the clutch end of the engine so I installed a different sump to make the exhaust routing a straight shot down the car.
 
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