It will probably be water condensation on your instrument cluster and under the dash area get the water leaks fixed both passenger and drivers side both easy cheap fixes guides are available .
My dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree and caused all sorts of issues when I got the driver's side Bulkhead seal failure when I had repaired the seal and dryer the car out with a fan heater it was fine .
You can't leave the leak it will cause permanent damage to the electrics at some point .
There may be another issue , but you need to fix your leaks first .
Passenger leak is Bcm box seal ( unscrew and seal up with gutter sealant that does not set )
Driver's side leak Bulkhead Plate underneath the servo ( bit more involved search for the guide and follow instructions cost about £25 for parts take half a day )

 

Or could be water ingress passenger side into the Bcm box causing electrical issues in the Bcm side of your electrics you need to unscrew the lid see if there is any moisture water ingress in there and replace the seal or like I did about 15 years ago sealed it up with none setting gutter sealant just in case I ever needed to go back in there sticky black and horrible but seals the box and keeps water out and really cheap cost me £2 for a big tube still got 3/4 left .
Not saying you might not have another issue , but before playing replace part darts .. Get it dry and sealed then you can clear codes and see what comes back .

 

Yeah thanks for that. I did research the brake booster leak even before troubles started but was more attracted to the drill a hole in the floor approach if necessary. Tried putting tape to push water elsewhere but didn't get a chance to test it before new battery was installed.
Have been blasting hair dryer behind the clocks to no effect so far. Codes persist. Charging battery overnight and considering running jumpers from my revving car to raise voltage.
Daughter mentioned corners seemed worse and happened to me too... the steering of course being electric. The car still cranks but the electronics maybe aren't getting enough voltage. Just an idea. Maybe I should jiggle a few fuses.
At the ex's house so I'm just the unhired help in the driveway ;-)

 

Corsa C water leak fixes. Drivers carpet wet + passenger carpet wet and Boot.

*update... I ended up doing this fix on another Corsa and wrote a more detailed guide. Between the two blog posts you can get a good idea wh...

carsandcode.blogspot.com

^water leak fixes^

 

Thanks Andy. I had seen that 1,2,3.. prefer reading about fixes rather than doing them these days! Here in the driest state in the driest continent too much rain is rarely the problem.
This car's passenger footwell is dry and no evidence of BCM water ingress, though I might get to that.

 

Have you got access to a dehumidifier or I used a fan heater aimed underneath the dashboard to good effect drove hot air upwards drying out all the area around the pedals and upwards into the dashboard and clocks as my binacle containing Speedo etc was all misty and running with water inside I did leave the heater running for a couple of hours on low with the windows slightly down 1" to let the moisture out .

 

Thanks Z. My fan heater was pinched by a tenant. I don't like them generally. Hair dryer and dry week 15-17 degrees C has got it pretty dry. Full battery, still no go.
Other codes are 0460 for fuel tank level and 0500 for Speedo problem... So all in the same area.
Symptoms are like running out of fuel so I might throw some in .
On YouTube there's a teaser for what looks to be a very good Corsa C circuit diagram, but the comments say don't bother.
I suspect a problem in the dash as you said.
Can get a Haynes next week but expect it will lack detail.

Had an 0500 when I bought it 4 years ago that had me taking out the clocks but this forum pointed me to front wheel where a broken wire was the problem.
Cheers

 

Easiest check on fuel is pull a spark plug see if it's wet with unburnt fuel or smell exhaust as someone turns it over for you should stink of unburnt fuel from the exhaust .
I agree about fan heaters we only have one for emergencies and works well when directed heat needed .
Steering can pull a lot of voltage have you had the battery voltage under load checked is your alternator pumping out 14+ volts under load ( I noted you stated new battery fitted so presume that is ok worth noting capacity and cranking speeds are both needed to start a modern engine with the electrical system demands these days )
What did you use to read the codes some scanners give out weird erroneous codes
Also I would be tempted to join Vauxhall Owners Network same sort of forum , but a lot bigger and busier not specifically for Corsa C however just a lot more active clever helpful people on there

 

There's a sniff of fuel at the tailpipe after cranking. But the tacho doesn't show 200 rpm, which apparently it should. Fuel gauge is at half. Might be crank sensor failure??
Have bought a fan heater and it's on the job, but can't find much evidence online about total failure caused by moisture in cabin.
Did your car still start with condensation in the clocks, Dragon??
Yes the steering has 50 amp fuse compared to starter's 30. Though a change of direction could also shift something.
Guy on V forum had eventual success supplying supplementary earth to ECU, but didn't help me.
Will now pull out instrument cluster.
Re brake booster resealing. YouTube video of drain holes being cleaned out with the dipstick!

 

As the others have said, you need to fix the water ingress problem first or the fault will come back.
The BCM is part of the immobiliser circuit as are the dials, and ABS pump.
Does your car still have the factory radio or has an aftermarket one been fitted? I have seen cheep radios or interface path leads for the steering controls prevent Corsa C's and D's from starting. A couple of patch leads worked at first then failed. It was to do with how the canbus system works on the car and the patch lead interfering with that.

Also as the others have said you did need a strong battery voltage and amps to start the car. Get the battery tested, even new batteries can be faulty.

 

Thanks. Original radio CD. Pulled clocks, replugged. Noted some rust on bare metal steering support. Almost inclined to try my old battery replaced by mechanic. The new reads 12.37 the old 12.43. Did try adding it in with jumpers and then also jumpering from my idling car. Then worried about frying ECU! Obviously the installed battery is in the box seat. Noted positive terminal was originally finger tight.
Have small tarp keeping windscreen dry. A cure can await the car restarting. I like it but they don't want to spend any more money on it.

Pictured plug with 2 wires is jiggly at back of key barrel. Someone had success in this area.
Also wondering if cam or crank sensor might be involved. It died slowly.
If there's no fix soon I'll bring it back home and do it at my leisure.
Thanks again for the advice and interest.

 

I didn't dare try to start the car when I had moisture in my car as it was playing hell with the electrics when I turned the ignition on and also was sparking on some wiring around and above the pedal area you could smell electrical burning I could heard it arching on the damp behind the dashboard . Grabbed a spanner from the boot and disconnected the battery immediately.
I never attempted to restart the car or even reconnect the battery until I had completed the servo bulkhead seal fix and got the car absolutely bone dry with the fan heater had it on low for about 8 hours in total . to dry the carpets out I just removed the driver's side sill plastic carpet trim and then used some pieces of wood to hold the carpet up angled the fan heater on a small stool so it blew warm air underneath the carpet worked great took a few hours but it was bone dry afterwards ( found a few mushrooms growing under the driver's seat Yuck they got scraped off and cleaned it with plenty of disinfectant and carpet shampoo ) might be worth checking under your front seats both sides water , a lovely warm moisture area for nasty things to grow )
I think I got lucky it didn't do any permanent damage to the vehicle thanks to the nice person who posted the original fix called Speedy otherwise I might of been sending my beloved Corsa to the scrapyard .

 

Battery can be very sensitive I had a 4 year old battery and it was marginal and needed a slow battery charger top up every 2 months because I do low mileage so for the sake of £72 I bought a new one which is 94amp hours and a faster cranking speed which I fail to recollect now my old battery was 85AH I am an old man and can't be bothered charging my car up every several weeks when i starts to slow up starting as the battery gets low and needs a manual top up .
Needless to say I have had the once new battery for 3 years 7 months and it still cranks and turns the car over just fine .
You have to remember our cars are now 15+ years old mine is now 19 years old and the starter motors and engines are older and worn and need the best punch a good battery can provide to make them start more easily .

 

Regarding fuel are you sure there is half a tank of fuel present I have seen plenty of times where a sticking or faulty fuel tank sender unit is reading half a tank when it is actually empty .
Normally easiest way is to fill the fuel tank but with cost maybe just put at least 2 gallons in it and see if the gauge moves correctly .

 

Yeah I'm a lot older than when I bought this car, and it's partly responsible! Can't believe the effort I put into getting Speedo working four years ago.
Now learn she's in RA_ so could have a free call out and tow. to a workshop.
Your situation was extreme. I did add some meth spirit to carpet to avoid mould. The latitude here is same as Tangier and rains mostly in winter, 21 pa, so not quite so insistent as Manchester. I'd prefer a more devious cure for the damp like drilling holes in firewall or blowing through drainage holes.

Worst case scenario would be replacing clocks ignition and ECU I suppose.

As I said, some fuel was added and gets to tailpipe unburnt. So that points to spark timing or computer saying NO!

 

Current focus is on the CIM module next to steering.

 

Yes mine was extreme case must of been letting damp in over time just thought it was condensation of the car not being used much then we had a massive downpour and maybe it hit the car at the best angle opened up the door to be greeted with 8" of water in the driver's side .
Unfortunately there is no easy fix of drilling the floorpan or removing a grommet since the water comes down from above the pedals and causes water egress into the pedal circuitry then it soaks into the carpets and insulation causing massive issues of damp .
The actual repair can be done in half a day and costs very little a tube of sealant and a top up of the brake fluid .
Are you sure the tarp is stopping water running down the windscreen and getting down to the scuttle panel if it's on a slope it's quite possible water is still getting through by running down the roof .
Also any of your issues could be caused by water in the Bcm box on the passenger side that seal lasts 5 years at best is a piece of foam total rubbish it's only a few screws to remove the old lid and check although the screws can be a bit rusty I ended up using a large hacksaw to put new groove straight cut for a standard screwdriver once I had them removed made refitting a breeze . I just used a none setting roof and gutter sealant hopefully I will never be going back in there so I am not that bothered that it's a sticky mess to open and reclose if required . Cheap and effective cure I had the sealant anyway just cost me about half an hour .
If it's not been done it will be leaking and can cause all sorts of electrical issues

 

Auto Club tech finally arrived. Not interested in codes, felt the cranking sounded uneven so tomorrow I pull the plugs and try checking the spark and compression.
I would agree it seemed uneven but I haven't been listening to many cranking engines lately.
No revs on tacho...dead sensor?

I had assumed that the security failure with codes 1614 etc would cut spark or fuel or both but maybe it is supposed to run for a few seconds. ( The keys have no remote buttons, if that's connected to immobiliser.)

 

Saga continues. When the auto electrician said "When I clear the codes they come straight back!" I thought Yeah that's why I sent it to you... He's been sick, seeking info from GM, possibly the car pass. ECU kit from eBay UK would eliminate a lot of uncertainty. ONE question. The rectangular black box doesn't look like the BCM??? How does it fit in. AND is installing Immobiliser Ring difficult... Air bag etc. Thanks. Have it booked to second place midweek.
PS Big skills shortage down here. One old sparky heading off to work on mine trucks for big bucks.

 

2 Hang on, ours is an automatic... doesn't that complicate getting an ECU kit from UK?

 

RESOLVED: Second mechanic quickly smashed it over the fence. Used carprog to unlock ECU that was upset by all the failed starts, found my hidden transponder chip was still there and fresh ones glued to keys by locksmith were ??? and just confusing things.
Heavy rain getting into dash at start of winter may have drawn the fault codes that didn't apply when everything dried out.
Yes, there was a sniff of fuel at tailpipe but pressure was found to be 4 not 58 psi, so a new pump went in and now its running sweetly again!
A series of unfortunate coincidences create the worst diagnostic problems !