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Discussion Starter #1
Good day all I am having starting issues with my 54 Corsa 1.0 twin port , the throttle body is chattering and the only way I can start it is by disconnecting it . But the I cannot rev the car up once I reconnect it then will Rev when I clear all the fault codes off, but then dies ? .
I have noticed the the charge to the battery is 14.8 volts but the reading on the OBD scanner is showing 9.8 volts . Anyone help me please if you been more information please ask I am really stuck.
 

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Sounds a bit like you may have a bad earth some where?
1 is near the battery
another is on the front L/H chassis leg below the fuse box near the horn
another is on the engine above the gearbox on a metal plate
another is the main battery to engine near starter motor
and there should be one to the ecu body.
Also check the ECU to engine loom plug for oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you sir should there be 12 volts to to the ECU if it does do you know what pin on the ECU plug / or what colour cable it would be ?
 

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The red wires are constant 12v to the ECU
Black wires are switched 12v to ECU but it needs to be plugged in to see them come live.
Brown wires are earth.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you once again so I am not confused is it the top ECU plug or the bottom ECU plug or both I need to check for the 12 volts reading
 

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One plug goes to the engine loom, the other goes to the body front loom. I think the lower plug is to body but don't quote me on that. Follow the loom from the front of the fuse box around to the ECU. This is the one you need to be testing at.
 

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You ideally need to test with it plugged in backprobing but if you cant do this you at least need to load test the powers and grounds. Dont rely on a multimeter. Seen this miss faulty on unloaded circuit's many times.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
One plug goes to the engine loom, the other goes to the body front loom. I think the lower plug is to body but don't quote me on that. Follow the loom from the front of the fuse box around to the ECU. This is the one you need to be testing at.
Do you know what pins on the accelerator plug from the ECU should have 5 volts on ?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
This is a screen shot of the throttle pedal position sensor,
View attachment 36296
Thank you all soted now , I have found it was all down to a faulty ECU , so i got a new set including ECU , Clock set, ignition loc and two keys immobiliser ring .

I faults have all gone now and its just gone through its MOT so it lived again!.

The only issue i have now is the key will not operate the central locking system, is there a trick or something I need to use to get it to talk to the central locking unit or could i reinstall the old unit and swap the keys over .
once again any help would be great
 

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The key fob and the BCM are all you should need for the central locking to work.
Have you tried putting a new battery in the key fob? Tried a re sync of the fob?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have replaced the battery still no joy , Can I put the original BCM back in and use the original key sender for the central locking , does the BCM not have to match the replacement ECU and ring and chip to all sync together ? Hope I am explaining my self enough fir you to understand ?
 

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According to the manual they are synchronized with all the closed doors, you put the ignition and in less than 30 seconds you must give the control to close or open, the car responds closed and opening to confirm, this never worked for me, but at least in Astra G could be done from opcom
 

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If the keys have not been sync'd due to a flat battery in the fob for a while sometime they need to be re coded to the car with Opcom or Tech2 etc.
I'm not sure if you can use another BCM with a different ECU set or if it upsets the rest of the car? Worth a try, worst that will happen is the car will not go and a battery off reset and refit the BCM that matches the ECU will sort this.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well just a quick update, disconnect the battery, installed the old BCM and using the old key the central locking system works as it did before ! But when I tried to start the car it struggled to start the spanner light was flashing and it eventually died.
So disconnected the battery again put the new BCM in and called it a day so this does proves the are paired BCM , ECU , Immobiliser Ring and key . I will look in to repairing the new key as I looks like it’s been through the wars.
Thank you are your help great to be able to speak to someone who has some experience on the Corsa.
 

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Your CL works and you have a new battery in the replacement fob (my fob was doing everything fine except the CL, replaced the battery and - to my surprise - the CL worked again) so my next look would be at the buttons on the circuit board, or possibly that the case is now not pressing them in sufficiently.
 
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