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laptop or Opcom clone? A large number of laptops would work fine (I can suggest things to look for) but the Opcom question is a very good one and Marks will give you very sound advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
laptop or Opcom clone? A large number of laptops would work fine (I can suggest things to look for) but the Opcom question is a very good one and Marks will give you very sound advice.
I’ve got a laptop just don’t know what to buy to read the live data and whether opcom is different to an obd2 scanner
 

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Yes, generic obd scanners can be OK - I have one and use Torque Lite on a phone for general codes and a bit of extra data not shown on std clocks. But for doing useful stuff, like programming keys+replacement clocks etc, and for properly specific codes and live data, Opcom clones and a laptop are required.

The thing is, many of the ebay sellers with Chinese clones are shifting boxes with a CD-ROM and are not very clued up to help or even supply compatible items. People like Marks152 and Liviu2004 will give essential advice because it's easy to blow £30 or more on some unworkable pile of plastic.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
So I’ve taken my MAF off and given it a spray just leaving it to dry now then will see what happens. Here are 2 photos of it after I took it off and to be honest it looks ok to me so I’m beginning to wonder if it will turn out to be the problem. The 3rd photo is something I spotted further along and looks like a possible gap where the pipe is connected. What do you guys think?

 

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That pipe goes onto a stub so shouldn't be an issue. Unfortunately sometimes mafs can fail and no matter how much you clean them they still wont work.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I’ve just got back from taking the car for a test run but unfortunately it’s not resolved the issue. It does only seem to be when warm and when I was driving along at about 30mph I put it in neutral to see what happened and it revved up again so I’m still none the wiser lol.

I took this video earlier just after I replaced the MAF and wondered if I could hear an air leak. What do you guys think?

 

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Which he has successfully done. (y)

If anyone is interested I have a brand new, genuine MAY Boscastle MAF sensor - the sensor itself which is held into the MAP housing. Much cheaper than buying the whole thing.
Glad to assist contact. Is the MAY sensor specific to particular engines? Mine's the 1.7DTi diesel. I know the petrols often use the same MAF but different part #s for the diesels.
 

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That does sound like it's got a air leak somewhere. Its hard to tell from the video as sometimes it magnifies a normal sound and makes it sound like somethings seriously wrong.

You need to get opcom on it and look at the fuel trims etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I’m looking into getting an opcom but in the meantime is there a way I can check for where the leak may be coming from?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I’ve just been out to have another look/listen and wonder if this may be an obvious culprit what do you think and if so what is it called please? I’ve had a look online but couldn’t find anything obvious.

 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
That's the throttle body to maf pipe. Tighten it up. Should be a 8mm jubilee clip from memory.
Ok thanks it does look as though the one on there is no good. Would this be ok and in the meantime could I use cable ties?


Do you think that could be the issue and what’s the best way to clean off the gunge?
 

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Cable ties wouldnt pull it tight enough. Its potentially causing the fault but it's certainly not going to help as unmetered air will be entering the engine causing a trim fault.
Regards to the oil. Pretty much every one I've seen looks like that. It can look worse if the clip is loose like yours. Just clean it up and secure the pipe on.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Thanks I’ll do that. Is this the correct jubilee clip and should I get some carb cleaner to get the oil off and use a toothbrush as I’m also wondering whether to lift the pipe off and wipe inside the throttle body too if it’s dirty (I don’t think my bright spark electrical cleaner will be suitable for doing this):

 

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After you have physically wiped out the excess gunk, try the Bright Spark to shift the stubborn stuff. The solvent is pretty much the same as carb cleaner and won't cause any harm. Worth a go rather than the delay and extra spend of getting another can.
 
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