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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I’ve changed the rocker cover gasket today, cleaned inside all of the cover too. I made sure it was dry before putting it back on. I left the cover off the car overnight too, with a rubber floor mat on top of the engine to ensure it stayed dry, it didn’t rain either.

I also put a brand new coil pack in

Now, when I go to start my car, I get the car with the spanner light on constantly, no flashes or anything. Pedal test code comes up as P0115 - Which is for the coolant temperature sensor. The fan kicks in straight away even when the engine is cold, and stays on for about a minute after putting ignition off.

I’ve tried a new coolant temperature sensor, but no luck. Need to try to disconnect the battery for 30 mins tomorrow to see if this will fix it. Also tried the old coil pack.

Before this happened, I’ve been having random dashboard flashes where this only happens on the right side, randomly - Which makes me think this is a more serious electrical fault?
36095
Any suggestions please feel free! Thank you
 

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Hi mate,

No expert on this - I'm sure others with better knowledge will help me out - but I think the dashboard light problems could be alternator/battery related.
 

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Interesting - I may be inclined to blame the alternator then.

Disconnect your battery as you said you would tomorrow, and go from there. Hopefully that will clear the code.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Interesting - I may be inclined to blame the alternator then.

Disconnect your battery as you said you would tomorrow, and go from there. Hopefully that will clear the code.
Update: Disconnecting the battery cleared the code. Dashboard still flickering.
 

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It happens to the corsa in Spain that the connection tab of the watch box fails some do not connect well and end up failing like yours or directly without working the solution is to remove the cusdro and clean the plug and the connector, and try to tighten the connector pins a bit You do not need half an hour to erase the codes without battery, with 10 minutes, and the position lights on comes to you Always turn on the position lights whenever you touch the battery, whether you disconnect or connect it or change it due to the voltage peaks that you may suffer, it is preferable that you burn a bulb before an ECU melts When UNPLUGGING the battery, first remove the NEGATIVE and when PLUGGING it in, first connect the POSITIVE If you are going to remove the battery to erase the codes, just removing the negative is enough, put a cloth on it so that it does not connect or make false contacts with the battery, and when putting the terminals make sure they are clean and tight, or you could suffer a bad connection, that does not start or even a cable burns due to a bad connection when it is loose
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It happens to the corsa in Spain that the connection tab of the watch box fails some do not connect well and end up failing like yours or directly without working the solution is to remove the cusdro and clean the plug and the connector, and try to tighten the connector pins a bit You do not need half an hour to erase the codes without battery, with 10 minutes, and the position lights on comes to you Always turn on the position lights whenever you touch the battery, whether you disconnect or connect it or change it due to the voltage peaks that you may suffer, it is preferable that you burn a bulb before an ECU melts When UNPLUGGING the battery, first remove the NEGATIVE and when PLUGGING it in, first connect the POSITIVE If you are going to remove the battery to erase the codes, just removing the negative is enough, put a cloth on it so that it does not connect or make false contacts with the battery, and when putting the terminals make sure they are clean and tight, or you could suffer a bad connection, that does not start or even a cable burns due to a bad connection when it is loose
Thank you very much for your answer. If I’m correct, are you suggesting for me to pull the cluster/speedo out and clean the terminals?

I was also thinking either ignition switch, or rust where the bcm is situated - Because I had a leak under the bcm lid in the past.
 

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I would then start there that it is less work than removing the speedometer, not removing the clock box, if not removing it as when changing a burned out light bulb, but cleaning the connector, you do not lose anything by trying, if I remember correctly from OPcom, which is in Spain, I imagine you call it VAUXcom there, you could check the needles of the frame by sending them up and down, although that test never worked for me
 
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