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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone

I have an issue with my 2006 1.2 petrol with 65000 miles.

The issue seems to happen at random intervals and goes as follows:

I try to start the engine but it makes that cranking sound and doesn't start. So I stop and try again. This time it will start but barely. The service light will stay on. When I drive after starting it like this, it takes a lot of revs to get up to speed. It seems like it doesn't want to move.

If instead of driving off, I turn the engine off and then try to start again, it will start normally and will drive normally too without issue. The service light will stay on for 1 or 2 seconds longer than usual but will then turn off.

I can't pinpoint exactly when it will happen as it has happened when the engine is cold or hot. And it has been consistent with the way I've described above. It seems like a complete gamble because it will sometimes start first time without any issues. This problem has only started happening from last week and has only happened about 10 times since then with daily driving.

I had a full service done on it in November and have only driven about 1500 miles since then.

Any help is appreciated
 

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This might not pin it down for you, but it's free and specific to the Corsa C (it's not a D is it?) so give the pedal test a go and note down any codes which show up. Post up your codes on this thread here. Although t'internet has P-#### = O2 sensor fail type info, again this is generic and sometimes people replace a sensor thinking it solves the problem whereas the sensor can be fine (so, money wasted) but the code indicates something is malfunctioning that causes a dud reading from the sensor.

A lot of these things are hoary old chestnuts for C owners and you'll likely get useful tips. Ordinarily, I'd say "but not from me; the useful people will chime in" but even I have read similar accounts in the past years and, with the help of any codes, can search previous threads (searching is not super-intuitive on this site but I have the hang of it) for related symptoms and fixes. That said, there are definitely others here with practical, not my armchair theoretical, knowledge who will help you better.

If it is a D rather than a C (D is the white car, C the maroon one)
Car Tire Cloud Vehicle registration plate Wheel

then the pedal test thread won't help, I think, and the Corsa D forum or VxON (Vauxhall Owner's Network) could be more helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This might not pin it down for you, but it's free and specific to the Corsa C (it's not a D is it?) so give the pedal test a go and note down any codes which show up. Post up your codes on this thread here. Although t'internet has P-#### = O2 sensor fail type info, again this is generic and sometimes people replace a sensor thinking it solves the problem whereas the sensor can be fine (so, money wasted) but the code indicates something is malfunctioning that causes a dud reading from the sensor.

A lot of these things are hoary old chestnuts for C owners and you'll likely get useful tips. Ordinarily, I'd say "but not from me; the useful people will chime in" but even I have read similar accounts in the past years and, with the help of any codes, can search previous threads (searching is not super-intuitive on this site but I have the hang of it) for related symptoms and fixes. That said, there are definitely others here with practical, not my armchair theoretical, knowledge who will help you better.

If it is a D rather than a C (D is the white car, C the maroon one)
View attachment 37167
then the pedal test thread won't help, I think, and the Corsa D forum or VxON (Vauxhall Owner's Network) could be more helpful.
Thanks for the information. I'll give that a go later today and post the results.
 

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The Corsa C displays INSP on the trip mileage when service is due it has no service light. The light you are seeing is one of the 2 EML's. So you have a fault code. If the pedal test doesn't bring up a code it will need to be plugged into a diagnostic tool like Opcom or Tech2 for a more in depth diagnostics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok so I have a code: 0335. Which is apparently the crankshaft position sensor. Could this be the cause?

It happened again today and was exactly the same as before, turn the key - doesn't start, turn it again - starts barely, turn it off then start again - starts fine.
 

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Yes, when the crank sensor fails it can cause the symptoms you have.
It's at the back of the engine near the starter motor. You can get to it from under the car.
Not expensive to replace.
 

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fwiw (z22se and others know things from experience, I just have a good memory for threads of the last 4 years) what you described had crank position sensor as a suspect of interest in my book but I didn't mouth out because I don't want people wasting cash and knuckles on my hunches, of all things. Symptoms you have + that code = highly likely, now.

As a rule of thumb, Cs are notorious either for disliking ebay/motor factor shop cheapo sensors or maybe the cheapo makers do a spectacularly bad job of C sensors compared to other cars. I know both Liviu2004 and Marks152 would say pay for the Bosch (£50 ish) and avoid the £11-15 no-names but I have seen past threads where people have bought cheap and solved the problem. Given it can be an awkward burger of a job, I'd probably go Bosch but times are hard and cheapos can't be 100% duffers or that business would be dead by now so you might want to risk it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
fwiw (z22se and others know things from experience, I just have a good memory for threads of the last 4 years) what you described had crank position sensor as a suspect of interest in my book but I didn't mouth out because I don't want people wasting cash and knuckles on my hunches, of all things. Symptoms you have + that code = highly likely, now.

As a rule of thumb, Cs are notorious either for disliking ebay/motor factor shop cheapo sensors or maybe the cheapo makers do a spectacularly bad job of C sensors compared to other cars. I know both Liviu2004 and Marks152 would say pay for the Bosch (£50 ish) and avoid the £11-15 no-names but I have seen past threads where people have bought cheap and solved the problem. Given it can be an awkward burger of a job, I'd probably go Bosch but times are hard and cheapos can't be 100% duffers or that business would be dead by now so you might want to risk it.
Quick update, it happens every time I start it now and has even cut out completely a few times while I was parked.

I'll try the cheapish sensor for now to see what happens. I'm getting it today hopefully so will have it fitted maybe today or tomorrow.
 

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I have not had any luck with cheap brand sensors, some not even working at all and others only lasting a few weeks.
Stick to genuine parts or Bosch. Siemens, Delphi items. If you shop around you can quite often find them for less than non branded motor factor items.
Recently got a genuine Bosch oil level sensor for a VAG from Autodoc £77 with shipping to UK, £350 from ECP for a non branded one, and £780 from the main dealer! Ebay had second hand ones for £150+
 

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In my (reading) experience, unnamed sensors either solve the problem and last long enough that people don't update the thread with "two months on and the new sensor's also packed in - cheap piece of Chineebay :poop:" or they just don't work right from the off. It might not have been crank position, but marks152 pictured up a sensor that wasn't wired up correctly straight out of the box. I do remember one thread with all the symptoms and "I replaced the CPS so it can't be that" which, after a lot of replies and frustration for the owner, it was a dud one from the local motor factor store. If yours doesn't get it going normally (the fact that it's getting worse is pretty common) then you can remove it and get a refund while it still looks new.

Assuming it does work, it's worth having a semi-regular search for used Bosch sensors (MAF is another one) that look decent - taken from running car, etc - on ebay, bagging it for £10-15 and keeping it in a box somewhere handy. If nothing else, you can be running reliably again reasonably quickly (very, in the case of a MAF) and then debate whether to cough up for a new one or keep an eye out over the weeks for another used one to go in the replacement box.
 
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