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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone

I am looking for a bit of advice.

I bought a 1.0 2011 Ecoflex last month from a dealership. I have had to take the car back a couple of times already due to a persistent rattle coming from the engine, when accelerating in lower gears. The car did not make this noise when I test drove it and put down a deposit.

The car was put through an mot before being handed over, which passed ... yet they did apparently replace the manifold last week after the engine light came on.

I have also noticed that the pedals become quite stiff and the engine gets a lot louder when driving at 70 for a long period, which I am guessing isn't normal! The engine also seems to 'jump' when starting the ignition.

Does anyone know what the rattling noise may be? This is a persistent issue and the garage told me they have had 6 mechanics look at the car and none of them can find anything wrong with it, which seems like total BS to me as the car does not seem right.

I have contacted the garage for a refund as I don't want to be driving round in a car that has issues but they are refusing due to the 6 mechanics not finding anything wrong. I am considering going somewhere else for a second opinion but I wouldn't mind having an idea of what it is first.

Any help would be really appreciated, can't help but feel like I have bought a dodgy car from some rogue dealers!

Thanks
 

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Sounds like a corsa D issue. Try see if there are any fault codes.

Which pedals become stiff when the car is doing 70?
When you say the engine gets louder, what do you mean, rattling? blowing?

The engine should jump when starting, or do you mean ignition on only and no starting?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The garage has ran codes and say there aren't any. Unfortunately, I am not able to do this myself.

Clutch and break pedals become stiff. It is more blowing when I say gets louder.

If the jumping is normal then that is fine, I have noticed a scratching sound a few times mind.

Currently trying to find another mechanic to take a look before I go back to the dealer on Saturday.
 

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Where in the country are you?
Popping over to someone that know cars a bit better would help as the descriptions of the problems are a little odd.
 

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Hi everyone

I am looking for a bit of advice.

I bought a 1.0 2011 Ecoflex last month from a dealership. I have had to take the car back a couple of times already due to a persistent rattle coming from the engine, when accelerating in lower gears. The car did not make this noise when I test drove it and put down a deposit.

The car was put through an mot before being handed over, which passed ... yet they did apparently replace the manifold last week after the engine light came on.

I have also noticed that the pedals become quite stiff and the engine gets a lot louder when driving at 70 for a long period, which I am guessing isn't normal! The engine also seems to 'jump' when starting the ignition.

Does anyone know what the rattling noise may be? This is a persistent issue and the garage told me they have had 6 mechanics look at the car and none of them can find anything wrong with it, which seems like total BS to me as the car does not seem right.

I have contacted the garage for a refund as I don't want to be driving round in a car that has issues but they are refusing due to the 6 mechanics not finding anything wrong. I am considering going somewhere else for a second opinion but I wouldn't mind having an idea of what it is first.

Any help would be really appreciated, can't help but feel like I have bought a dodgy car from some rogue dealers!

Thanks
I personally cant help with what the problem is, but I can tell you from a legal point of view that you have 6 months from the day of purchase to get them to fix faults before they can deny any responsibility. If you can, get a mechanic to join you for a drive so they can hear/feel/see the problems, and get a report off them, then it really doesn't matter if the dealership says they can't find anything, it doesn't mean the problem doesn't exist, so you need to be firm, and quick, in getting them to either sort it, replace the car, or give you your refund in full.
 

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There are a few areas which can rattle, rattle on startup that will be the oil pump. This is a common fault, check the condition of the oil and also check when the car was last serviced.

Constant rattle can be the water pump or alternator bearings.

The thing concerning me is the pedals getting stiff when at speed.

At this point I'd get a mechanic from the dealers to accompany you whilst you drive, make sure you can replicate the fault every time you drive.

When the rattle is there does the exhaust tailpipe smoke? If so what colour?

Hope this helps.

Cal
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi everyone

Thanks for the responses.

Took it to another dealership today for them to take a look. Turns out the timing chain and coil pack needs changing.

Bit frustrating really and strange that the 6 qualified mechanics at the dealers I bought it from, didn't pick up on such a common issue!

I'm really reluctant to let them fix it as I don't have a lot of confidence in them now and it seems to me that they have ignored it and brushed it off with it being a bit of a pain to fix. I think I'll be requesting a refund and taking further action if they refuse.

So frustrating!

Thanks everyone ?
 

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I'd go to another garage, I'm lucky in that a few family friends are mechanics so I get advice and help when i need it
 

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There are a few areas which can rattle, rattle on startup that will be the oil pump. This is a common fault, check the condition of the oil and also check when the car was last serviced.

Constant rattle can be the usa today protonmail pump or alternator bearings.

The thing concerning me is the pedals getting stiff when at speed.

At this point I'd get a mechanic from the dealers to accompany you whilst you drive, make sure you can replicate the fault every time you drive.

When the rattle is there does the exhaust tailpipe smoke? If so what colour?

Hope this helps.

Cal
Thanksfor your help
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi guys, just an update ...

I have been trying to get a refund on the car through my credit company as the garage have been dreadful!

Long story short, the car is currently unusable and the credit card company have basically said I have to let the garage fix it, despite numerous previous attempts by them.

Has anyone been in this situation before? I feel like I don't have much choice but I am really reluctant to let the garage fix it as I don't trust they will do the job properly and I would rather have a refund!

Any advice would be great!

Thanks
 

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Let them fix it, any issues within 2 years of timing chain replacememeans it's a warranty issue. Just remember to keep the engine serviced every 10,000 miles.

If you want an engineers report you can get one from the AA if needed.
 

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Thinking about them will assist you with fast conclusion and finding the right fix before it deteriorates.

The Transmission Liquid Level:

It is anything but a significant issue, yet you would need to look at it to run the conspicuous reason. The liquid ought to precisely be at the level trained in the proprietor's manual. Low degree of liquid is one reason for causing shaking clamor while quickening. It's a straightforward issue with a basic fix, however the result could be altogether terrifying jdmsportclassics.

Torque Converter:

An awful torque converter could be the inception of shaking sound while quickening at low speed. It will be a black out sound when the vehicle is lingering in 'leave' mode, yet the volume and recurrence will increment in relation to speeding up. It could demonstrate the last phase of the converter's life. On the off chance that this occurs, you should take the vehicle to a mechanics shop as quickly as time permits.

Engine Mount:

The engine mount on the traveler side could be another conspicuous guilty party. Its disappointment could prompt the shaking clamor while quickening. A cracked mount will release liquid all over. Along these lines, in the event that you see dull lines of dribbling oil underneath or on the edge close to the side mount, take it to a repairman. Once in a while, it's difficult to decide the disappointment just by taking a gander at it, particularly if there's no stain of oil. You should have it analyzed by an expert all things considered.

Warmth Shields:

These segments go about as a thermo-intelligent hindrance between the fumes framework and different parts including gas tank, fuel lines, and the lodge of a vehicle. At the point when they are free or broken, they neglect to totally obstruct the warmth move to these key territories. Therefore, you will hear startling clatters at higher rates.

Transmission shaking commotion:

Check the fumes framework when the motor is off for a few hours.

You need to examine the fumes framework to see whether warmth shields are causing shaking commotion in vehicle while quickening. Be that as it may, do it just when the motor is off for a few hours. The fumes channel and some different parts stay hot considerably twilight of turning the motor off.

V-Belt Pulleys:

The speed of these pulleys raises with the motor speed. On the off chance that they are marginally twisted or free, the metal-on-metal contact will make frightening shaking sound while quickening. Open the hood and assess the V-belts when the motor is making excellent progress so far. On the off chance that a pulley is terrible, the belt will show harm as frayed sides. On the off chance that the adornment drive framework is the root that vehicle makes shaking commotion while quickening, you can evacuate the belt and turn every one of the pulleys to check whether anybody wobbles or feels free.
 
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