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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

we recently purchased a 2006 corsa 1.2 active with 70k miles fairly cheap with headgasket issues and a rattly timing chain,
car started and ran just a little noisy with a lack of heat inside due to the headgasket and mayo appearing inside the cam cover etc.
we (me and my brother) took of the head and cleaned everything replaced seals and gaskets, water pump, cleaned all the water and oil passages etc,new oil and filter reconnected everything and went to start it and it refused to start. noticing the lack of fuel pump priming, spent some time reading online and it appeared the cankshaft sensor can often be an issue. so.. having fitted a new crankshaft sensor, we now have the fuel pump priming on ignition ( not every time the ignition is turned on ) but it is supplying some pressure to the fuel rail.

when cranking over the engine/spanner symbol doesn't flash so don't think its an immobiliser issue, we did a compression test and are getting 245psi on all four cylinders, checked all fuses and relays and not found any issues. we are a little lost as to what the issue could be, we have gone through every plug and sensor in the engine bay again to make sure nothing had been missed.

we dont have a code reader unfrtounately as we have always found a way round issues without the need for a reader.. we have tried the pedal diagnostic method but doesn't work.

could it be possible the camshaft sensor could give the issues we are having ?

any help is much apprecaited!

thanks
rob
 

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Rob, let’s start with some basics.
1. Are both engine lamps turning on with contact on? A dash picture would be nice.
2. Is spark confirmed? Surely can’t be difficult to test for spark.
3. If 2 is yes, would the engine start on brake cleaner sprayed in the air filter box?
4. Can we confirm the rpm needle moves to about 200 rpm while cranking?
5. Is cranksensor genuine or a crap aftermarket?
6. On some vauxhalls, crank sensor plug matches the knock sensor plug, can you confirm me the wiring colors on each of these plugs and to what is connected to?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for replying to quickly!!

okay,
1) both the check engine light and the car with spanner light are visible while cranking
2) no spark when checked
3) no rpm needle movement on cranking!
4) it is crap aftermarket cambiere unit we do have a bosch crank sensor from main dealer
5) will check the plugs however these were not disconnected at the time of the cylinder head being removed and reinstalled (the plugs aren't connected to the incorrect sensors if thats what you mean, but will check and confirm this tomorrow).

thanks!

rob
 

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Well, we’re getting somewhere. No spark due to no valid rpm seen by engine ecu. Install bosch sensor and see the wiring colors.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Update, checked the crank sensor and knock sensors plugs.. no issues there, checked all the connections round the engine bay and found the plug on the side of the ECU wasn't pushed/slid all the way home and it clicked into place firmly. Car started and sounded like a sewing machine. Really nice and smooth..

Had real difficulty bleeding the coolant system however.. found out brand new thermostat was jammed shut so removed the thermostat and ran without stat, flushed the radiator and matrix several times, found for a few moments we did have warmth coming through the dash and then went cold... Now it's running rough on idle almost cutting out.. getting pretty fed up now..
Engine management light is on but unsure if this is just down to an old code being stored..

We removed the hose coming from the matrix to the water pump and started the engine and found water wasn't flowing from that hose to the water pump.. water was in the egr valve but not going from egr valve to matrix.. removed egr valve and found water there but not making its way to the matrix.. hose Luke warm and no flow from pipe going to pump.

We have also noticed when starting from cold the engine rpm is around 650rpm even from cold and is now running rough on idle. It was okay when we first got it running but as the day went on of trying to sort the cooling issues it began to run rough on idle.any help is highly appreciated as we are getting a little frustrated with one issue after another..

Thanks
Rob
 

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Stored codes don’t turn on lamps while running, only active codes. If it went in closed loop control, long term fuel trim might have learned bad values due to whatever problem turned that mil on. Hence the trouble running.
 

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Oem thermostats on some vauxhall engines have a small hole for automatic de-aeration. Not sure on your engine type, but use common sense and ask yourself how is the air coming out and where?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well having run the engine with the stat removed and still found no water going from matrix to pump I'm sure a stat being in place wouldn't have helped as the system we be free flowing without the stat in surely?
 

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Maybe so, I’ve looked to z12xep engines, de-aeration is on top of the water pump. Put all back in place as they belong, expansion tank cap open, fill to max, see if water flows from the deaeration pipe to expansion tank? Put good thermostat in place otherwise the big circuit will take over the small circuit, so it will never deaerate?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The dearation pipe is that like a small overflow pipe that runs to the top of the pump that goes over the tall brass collar? If so, no I don't think water has been flowing through this?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Quick update, managed to get coolant flowing through everywhere have a replacement thermostat to go in and... Borrowed a code reader and found... Air intake sensor fault and crank sensor fault.. new crank sensor has been put in but was a cheap cambiere unit so will try a Bosch sensor and come back
Will update if this solves the issue.
Thanks
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Odd then as cleared the faults and on the second attempt at reading the codes it only showed the crank sensor at fault and didn't bring up the MAF sensor so.. not sure now? Could the camshaft sensor be at fault showing itself as the crank sensor?
 

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Have a look at your wiring, I've had new sensors that were wired the wrong way round, however the car should start and run even though the crankshaft sensor is bad. Make sure you have the radio code and disconnect the battery for 10 minutes. Reconnect it and it should run but without the rev counter and the EML will be on.

Another point worth noting is to listen to your fuel pump with the key at position 2. It should prime for 2 seconds then stop until you crank it over... no fuel pump priming means the crankshaft sensor is definitely bad, so check its wired correctly and try cleaning it... if it still doesn't work best replaced unfortunately.

I can do all the checks above within an hour.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
We replaced the crankshaft sensor as having done the headgasket and chain etc etc the original sensor wasn't giving an rpm reading when cranking the engine over when trying to start it up.. fitted new crank sensor and an issue with an ECU plug sorted the car ran and ran okay but as we began trying to figure cooling issues it began to run worse and appears to not run in choke i.e from cold it runs at 650rpm where I would expect it to run nearer to 1200rpm until it begin to warm and gradually drop to a lower rpm.. it does run at the minute but runs rough idle ( at first it ran fine and now runs rough having been started a few times as we were trying to resolve a coolant issue).

You mention checking wires, I'm guessing you mean to check the wires that run to the plug that goes into the crankshaft sensor?
The fuel pump primes, and it starts (before we weren't getting the priming or starting) hence why the cambiere sensor was fitred.

Thanks
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Okay, now have heat inside the car after a bit of messing around. Still have a rough running issue however.. we have found when starting from cold the engine idles at 600rpm when the engine warms up and begin to read a temp above 80c it begin to run smoothers and the rpm comes up to around 900 on it's own and if you touch the throttle the engine rpm rises and then hangs for a few seconds before falling back to around 900rpm.
No fault codes displayed and havi g changed the crank sensor again the eml has gone now. At the moment it's acting like it's hot when it's cold and when the engine warms up it's as if it's running in choke any thoughts?
Help is much appreciated!!
Thanks
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Would this likely resolve the low rpm when starting from cold and the rpm then raising when it's warm?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Okay so throttle body and plate now cleaned and still running the same. Engine rpm increases when the engine is warm as if it is on choke and runs rough when started from cold and runs at 600rpm from cold rising to 900-1000 when warm. Little stumped as there's no codes and unplugging MAF doesn't change anything
 
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