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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I'm new here and would like to ask a question about engine compatibility.
I have a Combo van and the engine code is Y17DTL, that's not intercooled. This engine is way past it's best and needs replacing.
So the question is, can I use an engine code Y17DT, that I believe is intercooled.
Can I just install without the intercooler without any ECU/EDU nonsense to worry about?
It's just that the Y17DT engine is for sale locally.
Also, I have heard conflicting views on engine out the bottom against out the top. Can any one tell me categorically if it can come out the top. (this would be easier for me).

Got to go out now will check back later.

Thanks chaps,
Ivy.
 

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Hello and welcome to the Combo (incorporating Corsa C) Club, Ivy, plenty of us vanners on here. Yes, as you suspected, the only difference between the DT and DTL is that the intercooler isn't fitted to the DTL and you can fit the DT engine you've seen. My Combo Tour was the Di (DTL) and a previous owner had swapped for another, lower mileage, DTL engine. I later got hold of an intercooler and hoses (actually, from a 1.3 CDTi, the only other thing I needed was a metal pipe from an Astra 1.7DTi) to turn it into a DTi and it made its effect without me having to do a thing to the ECU or any programming malarkey.

In fact, if you're swapping in another engine, I highly recommend adding the intercooler and hosiery while you're doing it (I can link to some available if your engine source doesn't have it - don't pay too much if the engine seller offers theirs in the deal). It's very little hassle to add - seeing as you're doing an engine swap, I'd say virtually no hassle - and ups you from 65hp to 75hp and changes the 0-60 from 'nearly forever' to ~13-14 seconds; much nicer in traffic and joining motorways, etc.

I wrote about the IC addition in my progress thread but I won't bore you with a link to my blah blah. If the idea does appeal, just say and I'll put up relevant info.
 

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Thanks ozsubrosa, that's just what I wanted to read(y).
I would like to see your progress report regarding adding an intercooler if you can show me a link.

Does any one know about lifting the engine out from the top, or does it HAVE to come out from under the car?
 

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I think it might lift out if the bonnet (+hinges) is completely taken off, but let me look around and check that out. I know that Huge_Ferret did a thread on his 1.7 Combo and he took his engine out. This my progress thread

I am an awful waffler and take 3 paras to say "I washed the car" so I jumped to pg2 where I quickly (by my standards) sum up how to go from Di to DTi, but you're welcome to look back at pg 1 to see pics of how it happened (not done by me; my fingernails are too clean so I pay grease monkeys but it's really not complicated).

Just checked Huge Ferret's thread. He had a crane and took the engine out from the top (described in pg 1), then did advanced wizardry with a DTH's turbo to get around 100hp

This has been on ebay for months (I got mine for £40 delivered so I'm not surprised) but it contains everything IC you need except the metal pipe from a 1.7DTi

and I'll have a look for that metal pipe now
 

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This is the pipe

If you have this pipe, the intercooler (the smaller looking radiator in front of the big, normal radiator - that you won't need and could save postage on - in the previous link) and its connected hoses, then a Di becomes a DTi. Nothing more complicated than tightening nuts and screws. As I mentioned in my progress thread, it shouldn't scare off insurers. Your old engine needs replacing and you got a s/h DTi, please now insure as a DTi. They shouldn't bump up by much at all (compared to "I've just added an aftermarket go-faster" which would make some policies ramp up or even refuse to quote) and you get a van that keeps up with the traffic much better for very little extra outlay.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks again ozsubrosa, I had read the thread by huge_ferret and I thought he made it seam easy to lift the engine out, so I wasn't sure if he was on a different model or something. But the manual says lower it out under the van, that is the Haynes book of lies though :rolleyes:.

I will go through your article later and check out the ebay link tonight.

There is a fine line between waffling and being thorough.
I like thorough.

Ivy.
 

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You shall later find that I don't just cross that line but hop, step and jump like Jonathan Edwards far into the waffle pit. Haynes assumes that (albeit with a 5-spanner 'don't try this at home') we've all got blue overalls, tools hanging from the walls in alphabetical order and ramps, pits and winches galore so they just detail the quickest route. Ferret's pics suggest he has the pit but a lift out can be done (he mentions dropping the engine slightly to access a lower mount, but I don't know if there's room for that on the level or whether stands would be required to get enough lowering).

Bear in mind that the provider of your DT engine could well throw in the IC and hoses if asked. Whereas the turbo and other ancillaries have a separate value, the IC and hoses don't because they rarely fail and very few go ahead and upgrade the Di to DTi (some have thought of it but, afaik, I'm the only person on t'net to have actually written it up). The point is that they shouldn't ask more than £40 because, whatever price some people put on ebay, they never sell even with the main rad attached.
 

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So long as you are prepared to take out the radiator at the same time as the engine swap (which is very helpful for space anyway) then the engine will lift out and in via the top.
The engine mount thing i mentioned is that the passenger side mount is recessed in to the main chassis rail and must be completely removed to allow the engine to be lifted upwards (4 extra bolts)

In terms of how much to lower we are talking about the depth of the mount so 4-6 inches which is a breeze so long as the driveshafts are already out which they should be by that point anyway.

I suspect the Haynes doesn't want you to take more than it considers necessary apart for the job, hence leaving the rad and passenger mount in, the other advantage of the engine being removed from the top is that you are left with a rolling chassis and don't have to take the front Subframe off.



The hole in the chassis leg is shown in the pic above and you can see where the 4 bolts hold the mount in, other than about a 30 degree twist of the engine towards the front and the gearbox towards the back as you remove/fit the engine its not bad at all.

Let me know if you want any more info.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This is a great resource, am I glad I joined.

Huge_ferret, thanks for that extra information and photo. It is the "remove subframe" that I was concerned about and also the head room to lift the van.
I hope to start later this week.
I am in no rush because my plan is to get the van in tip top mechanical condition and then create a micro camper van, a "minibago". I don't need the the van on a day to day basis.

On an unrelated subject, is the Opcom system really helpful for general repairs and servicing etc.?
I have been servicing and repairing my own cars, vans and motorbikes for longer than I care to think about but never really got into electronic diagnostic stuff, I prefer classics but I have to move forward sometime.

Ivy.
 

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Opcom is THE tool to have. V5 board maybe you get lucky to have genuine processor. Downgrade to 1.39 firmware plus 2010 software is all you need. But no BCM programming, as this goes wrong.
 

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Vanessacombo wrote up her "stealth camper" Combo conversion - very nice too:

and, on page 3, DanG847 joins in with his Combo Crew which he has also micro-campered. Might be an interesting read for ideas, Ivy
 

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Hello Ivy, did it work? do you have any pic to show? I'm with the same dilema, but with a corsa. Thanks
 

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Welcome, guille. The Combo and he Corsa C are exactly the same up to the windscreen, so the Y17DT can replace a Y17DTL and removal can be done from above just as huge_ferret described.

It would be nice to hear how Ivy got along, though.
 

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Welcome, guille. The Combo and he Corsa C are exactly the same up to the windscreen, so the Y17DT can replace a Y17DTL and removal can be done from above just as huge_ferret described.

It would be nice to hear how Ivy got along, though.
Thanks for replying. Here in Uruguay the car is a Corsa 2 hatch 2003. I'll buy the engine in Europe, so it was very important your response. I doubted if the intercooler were going to fit. Cheers!
 

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The intercooler definitely fits. I believe the standard radiator you already have will have attachment clips, but I can't be absolutely certain as I replaced the radiator, AC condenser (and dryer) and fitted the intercooler (and hoses) all at the same time. I bought a used 1.3CDTi set, replaced the condenser with a new one (the used item was leaking). The only extra thing I needed was a 1.7DTi metal pipe (Combo, Corsa or Astra will do) as the Di /dtl pipe is not engineered for an intercooler.
 
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