Back to my problem Corsa C. I still have not been able to fix this problem. It still shows shift position out by over 11 mm. I am thinking it may have something to do with the reverse gear selector rod, as in the cut out slot, where the actuator would push the rod, it looks rusty on the top of the cut out. I am wondering if a bit has fallen off. I have never really looked at that before, so does any one know what it should be like. I took pictures of mine, but I am not that good with computers and this site asks for uri files when you try to upload an image. Any help with this problem I would be very grateful. Eddie

 

May be the selector motor one of it that has gear tooth might be weak to turn enough to enable that lever push, i have had a similar issue like this, when the selector motor with the gear teeth cannot turn enough to let the fork move gears in the box, so when i had the selector motor replace, everything work fine for me...

 

Hi Josip Stanic posted a video how to manually disengage the easytronic clutch. What I would do is remove the gear actuator, and put the box in to gear, best would be reverse. See if the car try's to turn the engine over when pushed, then manually disengage the clutch as per the video and see if the clutch has actually released. What this will tell you is that the work you carried out inside the gearbox is working as it should or not. If it is proved to be working correctly then you need to make the clutch actuator motor move the clutch physically as well. I would use op-com and a pressure bleeder. If that seems to work, i.e. the electric motor has pushed fluid out, the next test I would do is to check the clutch position with op-com. I wouldn't use tech 2 at this stage, as the software can sometimes stop you from jumping from one thing to another, where as the op-com lets you jump around no problem.

Thanks for offering to help with the url I have emailed a picture. I hope it is good enough. The gearbox is after all still in the car. Eddie

 

thanks Eddie, for the info, apparently i have place order for original clutch disc plate from the netherlands, and am waiting for it arrival then will let the mechanic disassemble the box and fix the original thing, then i will proceed..

i keep asking myself this question how do ecutesting manage to flash the calibration file into the ecu, i have also read from other forums whereby people are demanding that, other share flash file to flash their flash chip and eeproms, but so far i have not really seen someone that this method work for them successfully, i personally have a programmer that can read and write to the flash chip 29F400BB or 29F200BB but i am wondering if this would work... after writing this to it and also writing to the eeprom chip 24C16

have you had any idea how this is done Eddie

 

Above is a picture of my gearbox reverse selector rod, with the cut out, looking a little corroded. Does it seem ok, or has something broken off? I hope you all can have a look at the image, and let me know what you think. . Thank you Robinson for helping with the file.

 

Sorry this is the first time I have come across the early clutch actuator, which one can not program. So no I do not know how ecu testing actually do calibrate them. As far as I know they do not update the chips, simply send them back to X factory. Maybe if some one here has the older tech system previous to tech2 they may have the software, or some idea as to how it used to be done. Eddie

 

Hello all again. I think I may have found the problem. Not the easiest by far to sort out, but I was able to get hold of another gearbox to have a look inside. There is nothing broken off in my original gearbox, but the reverse gear selector rod is much harder to push in to reverse, and out, than the other gearbox is. Now I know this, I have tested the gear shift actuator, and it does lock up with the reverse gear selector still engaged. I tried another actuator 3 in fact all known to be good, and they all seize up in the same position. So I am reasonably confident the reverse selector is at fault, and I think my only option is to change the gearbox complete. I of course have a gearbox so that's not the problem, my age/mobility is. Getting under cars, dropping gearbox's, on my drive is not what the Doctor ordered. So I will have to get someone more able bodied than me to do this work.

Anyone able to help with this, please give me a shout. Eddie

 

Congratulation, for not letting go of the work but trying hard to get this fix once and for all..
getting the tranny remove, is not easy at all, all the subframe must come down, i most of the time give it to the mech to do such hard work for me and i get in when it come to the electrical part... I wish you best in the removal processing, as you have said your age wont allow you to perform such a surgical operation to the tranny removal, do employ someone who is with the strength to hustle that out, good Look..

Am also still waiting on my clutch disc plate to arrive and then the tranny will be remove again for the new plate to be install...

 

Don't forget to change the slave bearing. Once they have fully expanded (which they do when the gearbox is removed) it is a gamble as to as to if they will contract property, and work correctly after. Eddie

 

Hello Eddie, after installing the clutch disc, my sleeve does not contract any more, please what can I do, because the previous sleeve contract when I perform actuator hydraulic bleed, I could hear inside the box pushing the pressure plate but now it does not, the actuator cannot help contract it any more, even though you see the actuator spinning or turning alright but that kind of contract I used to hear before removing the gearbox, to install another disc, I don’t hear it no more, and when a sleeve does not contract the ecu will continue to give error code.. thanks

 

HI all, problem now solved car running as it should. The fault was with ECU testing. There repair only cleared the P1735 not the original problem. Another clutch actuator was fitted and solved the problem. BINGO. First time ever I have sent a ECU away for repairs to a reputable company, who took the money, sent it back saying all good, and it was not. I am waiting to see what they want to do about refunding me, that is the least I think they should do. The hours lost, etc etc. Any way I will let you all know what they say. Eddie

 

I have had a few ecu tested and they came back as fully working but in the end it was a faulty ecu. These things happen im afraid. Glad you got it sorted

 

Also glad to hear of your success, Eddie, although I empathize with your frustration. I've had the all-clear three times with my AC, only to be out-of-pocket and suffering Betty Swollocks within days. Not the same level of awkwardness, I know, but I can x10 and imagine your suffering. If it's any consolation, you and others on this forum must make it the best resource available for fixing, as many have probably binned their Easychronic or Quickshi(f)t box while they still had hair left.

 

Yes enough knowledge can stop "the experts" from getting away with doing things wrongly, and also charging as much as they feel like. With enough posts, this could become a real help place for anyone with problems of semi automatic transmissions. Also in my view it wouldn't be a bad idea for people to post their experiences of the "expert" repair places they use. Good or bad, that may help knock the not so good ones in to better shape, and give better service to their customers. Eddie

 

This is just a headsup for you S-A owners. A result of my nightly searches for all things and I have nothing to do with the seller but an easytronic with a 99p start might be interesting to someone:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vauxhall...gearbox-F13/173883950824?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

The darn nuisance is that I'd ordinarily be happy to go down to Stoke on anyone's behalf but I'm in Spain until mid-May. Still, if that's of any use if a forum member contacts the seller, let me know.

 

The gearbox is a standard f13 manual box so no need to ensure it came from a easytronic car.

 

Ah right. I thought it must have had some unusual bit for the auction to have specified. Nothing to see, then, my apols.

 

No nothing special. Its a standard f13 but still a good spot for someone looking for one.

 

Another little flag. I don't know if the selector for the Easytronic is ever an item for replacing to solve problems but they're not common on ebay so it might be a timesaver if someone's looking:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vauxhall...ck-Selector/254233694701?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

Hi all I have another Easytronic problem, well two really. The first one is, on my latest op-com the option to "test the clutch" has disappeared. That is the one that is used to make the clutch engage and disengage. How old does the op-com version have to be to still have this option? The reason I ask, is this could help a lot with the new problem I have with 2007 Easytronic giving code P1734-00 Touch point not learned. I can start the engine when using the op-com to program the touch point. However the values move only a bit, and I hear a clonking/knocking sound as it try's to move. The op-com continues to try and program the actuator, but only this movement produces the sound. Has anyone had this problem before? If so what was it, and how was it cured. Any suggestions invited. Thanks a lot Eddie

 

Hello enderbyeddi,

I have the same fault code with an astra g 2004 easy tronic.
Customer came with the car, becaust sometimes it was sticking in 4th gear when you want to start, causing the clutch to slipp ennormesly, you can still smell the clutch now.
Yesterday no problems, but i tried to do the gear learning procedure using my diagnostic tool( autel, maxisys 908spro), ok this worked, we drove the car no problems.
Then i wanted to do the clutch engage learning, it was running well, but i tought it's always better to do this, (i know this from a alfa 156 selespeed of my brother).
But after that i get the fault code P1734-00 like you said in this post. And the car will drive, but is really brutal when in 1st gear, or reverse, and it won't go to the next gear or higer then 2500 rpm, if you go to neutral and then back to A, it goes to 2nd gear, and so further, but going to lower gears it also doesn't want to do.
I tried the learning clutch procedure a lot of times, it also not always works, but the fault code still remains.
It says at the end the postion is 9.2 mm, sometims 9.4 mm.
Any idea how to solve this?

If i didnt touched it it would still be working dammed.

And now just at the end, it's stuck again, i can only use 4, N, or Reverse, but because the clutch isn't engaging right, i can't drive the car anymore, hope it will work today.

I don't have opcom, will that work better?

 

Hi all, a quick follow up to my last post. When trying to learn the clutch touch point, (engine started brake pressed, hand brake on) and it asks you to select "A" as the system moves the clutch, a low thud with a low knock sound, along with the car almost wanting to move. I have that feeling this may mean gearbox out. Yuk. Anyway any one who has an idea please post it. Thanks Eddie.

 

Seems to me the first thing I would do is check for air in the system. If you go the bleed the system it will show you the clutch position changing, if it is not changing within normal parameters it would either mean you have air, the clutch itself is wrong, or the actuator pump motor has a fault.

 

I use bleed pump to flush out air from the system, by pumping brake fluid through the container where the fluid reservoir is, then I pump brake from with the bleeder device till I begin to see clear fluid from the sleeve nipple..

You said the clutch itself is wrong, can you explain because the clutch disc is the exact spec which I got and fixed to the flying wheel, so I need explanation to, what you mean by clutch is wrong, the actuator is a used one I got from the Netherlands, when I had it installed , the N was stable and I even got the car started for the first time after using the bleeding to just flush out all bubble in the system, but when I put car into R, it shudder and turn off, this happens twice and now F is on, tell me about P1607, now I try to bleed with tech2 scan too and I could not hear the sleeve contracting but tech2 tells me, procedure completed successful.

I got attempted to perform gearbox parameter relearn, then it has a new fault code that geometry not learned

 

Have you ever seen a fault code like Clutch actuator temperature HIGH, after you hve tried several attempt to bleed the clutch, if it happen this way, what do you do, does it means the actuator has gone bad or what is the remedy to this temperature high

Thanks

 

Sorry I have not been on this site in a long time. Now Forumoto have you sorted your problem? If not, I have here a few things. Do not worry about clutch actuator temperature high, if you are not sure just check it by looking at the values.

When you fit a new clutch disc or pressure plate to easytronic's there is an adjustment which needs to be made. If you buy a complete clutch kit, then the manufacturer will have set it up, but if only one piece is changed then it needs to be set before the clutch is permanently fitted. There are some extra smaller springs on the plate, which are automatic adjusters, these springs need to be completely compressed before the whole assembly is bolted in to place. These springs stay compressed until the first time the clutch is completely compressed, then they are released and find the correct adjustment. IF you fitted a complete new system then I would say you have this covered, if not did you set the springs? There is a video called "Resetting a self-adjusting clutch no special tools", which will show you what I mean.

If you replaced the 2 pieces new then you should not have any problems, I assume your clutch disc was fitted facing the correct way? Also did you replace the concentric slave cylinder, as re-using old ones which can over expand when the gearbox is removed, can be a complete pain when the gearbox is re-fitted.

Now assuming all the above is OK then there are a few things I can think of doing. 1. Get it to re-learn the gear positions. Does it learn all 5 gears and reverse? followed by all the gears sync correctly? Or does it stick after say gear 1 sync is learned? If it sticks take a note of the actual clutch position and commanded position shown as your doing this if using OP-COM. Let me know how you get on from here, then I will continue more quickly this time. Eddie

 

Welcome to ccuk. Because this is >1yr since the last post, and eddie was not the originator of the thread, he might not see your post. I suggest that you copy what you have written and send it to him as a private message. He will then receive an email telling him that there is a PM. Normally, I would suggest you start a new thread but the contributors on this one are your best source of information on the Easychronic gearbox.